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Anglesey

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Gogarth 
Holyhead Mountain 
Rhoscolyn 

Anglesey  


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Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Sep 19, 2008
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Description 

The sea cliffs of Craig Gogarth run along the northwest corner of the island of Anglesey, reached on the A5 by crossing the Menai Straits on the world's first great suspension bridge, built in 1826 by Thomas Telford. The A55 Britannia Bridge is also worthy of mention.

If the weather is wet and rainy in Snowdonia it may be worth it to head up to Gogarth, where the great sea cliffs will certainly get your attention and commitment - below 5.9 climbers need not apply.

Getting There 

The A5 across the Menai Straits and towards Holyhead.

Climbing Season



Weather station 13.8 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Anglesey:
A Dream of White Horses   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   Gogarth
Browse More Classics in Anglesey

Featured Route For Anglesey
Marc Chrysanthou, early 80's

A Dream of White Horses 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Gogarth
Beautifully named and a true North Welsh classic - and not even in the mountains of Snowdonia. Made famous by a spectacular picture in one of the Royal Robbins Rockcraft books. If you're in Wales, do this route. Although if the waves are big the climb may be wet.It takes a traversing line leftwards across the huge and exposed Wen Slab for a few pitches on good holds with the odd tricky bit here and there, then makes a spectacular traverse across the arch (or Zawn) and up onto the grass.When I di...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Anglesey Add Comment
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By Silvia Fitzpatrick
From: North Wales and Spain
Jun 20, 2009
The Main Cliff of Gogarth offers some of the very best traditional climbing in the UK - amazing routes with incredible atmosphere.

If you are visiting the UK and climb trad then don't miss out this crag.

Killer routes include Positron (E5/5.11d), Hunger (E5/5.12a), Citadel (E5/5.12a) and Skinhead Moonstomp (E6/5.12c).

There are lots of easier routes in the mid 5.10s as well.

There are crag topos for climbing at Gogarth on my website.

There is also a really good new guide to all the northern Gogarth crags by GroundUp.

If you are coming to the area don't hesitate to contact me if you need more information/partners etc.

Kind Regards

Silvia