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Angle of the Dangle 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Probably Ralph Schmitt
Page Views: 1,105
Submitted By: Craig McCudden on Jan 1, 2002
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I do not know, I wish I had ...

Description 

Climb from the ground Directly to the pin on Upper D.

Follow Upper D for 10' I think(Someone who's done it lately will be more accurate) Then take off straight up following Micro-Edges all the way to the top.

I had Tr'd the thing repetedly for weeks then one day, sntached up somebody's climbing partner and bam led it.

Or should I say soloed it, as there is NO gear on the actual route itself. The last piece possible to get is a Piece right before you leave Upper-D.

Don't fall at the crux unless your comfort level includes a 50 footer...


Protection 

ehhhhhhhhhh....Pro?



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By Leo Hski
Jan 15, 2008

FA Ralph Schmitt I believe.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 30, 2009

I wonder about this route. The guidebook says that from the flake, you continue up to the thin crack and then left onto the crux face. The description above makes it sound like you avoid the flake and thin crack entirely. I wonder which is the true route.

I also heard that a hold broke on the crux face. Does anyone know about this?

By Tony Brengosz
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

I think the guide's description is the proper one. From the flake you do a cool undercling move, then up the think crack, all on relatively decent holds. Not sure if anything broke or not, but it still goes, even if the crux crimp is thin and pretty sharp. If that hold were better, I think this would be a classic 11 for the lake, but as is I think it detracts a bit from the quality, and the 5.12 grade maybe scares people away.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 9, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

The upper crux made the route feel harder than most other 12.a's I've done at the lake. The climbing starts easy and then progressively gets harder and pumpier as you get to the finish. Thin crimps and devils lake high steppin' describe this one best. Would be a fun lead!