2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This spectacular route starts just left of the end of the first pitch of Left Side (page 115, route 17 in Rossiter's guide) on the Wall of Winter Warmth. Access the start by climbing the first pitch of Left Side or hike down a steep gully from the top of the rock just above the Berlin Wall. A new two-bolt anchor has been placed at the start for a better and safer belay.
Pitch 1: Follow a line of bolts up a steep wall. The first moves off the ground are the crux (lunge) and lead to steep, continuous climbing up past a "tooth" to good holds and the end of the first pitch.
Pitch 2: The repose pitch! Climb up on good holds to a small overlap. Crank past the overlap making technical moves into a shallow corner. Stem up the corner moving left on extremely thin holds (crux) into another shallow corner. Make hard layback moves up into a shallow corner over a steep section that leads to a good rest. Follow bolts up to the anchors on great holds with spectacular exposure to the anchor.
Rap the route to the ground. This is a great climb in a beautiful position high above Boulder Creek. I think it is one of the best sport climbs in Boulder Canyon.
Seven bolts to a two-bolt anchor for the first pitch. Twelve bolts to a two-bolt anchor for the second pitch. Carrying twenty-two quickdraws if you do the route in one-pitch.
If there was a Pulitzer Prize for routes, I'd nominate Bob D'Antonio for finding things that are classic in ground already well traveled. Now with that preface, I'd have to say that Angle of Repose, while a very interesting route, is also one of the weirdest routes in Boulder Canyon. On the one hand, it is very appealing because over its three pitches it seems to be going somewhere - a bit unusual for a sport route. On the other hand, it has some pretty weird sequences.
The approach is the trad line "The Slot" which at 5.9 seemed stout for the grade, and it needs a double bolt anchor at the lower ledge for rappel purposes. Angle of Repose proper begins from a double-bolt stance at the top of The Slot and above a stunningly loose and cobble-filled slot. This is a warning to be careful!!
P1 of Angle of Repose starts with a nice ballistic dyno to a very sharp edge that has been glued back in place (N.B. we filed off the sharpest part of the edge). This is followed by a reachy gaston and some pumpy moves in largely juggy, interesting terrain. Cop a rest between moves and this comes together nicely.
P2 is the weirdness. It took a bit to suss out the beta, shortly after the start, which is a tad inobvious, and I won't give it away. Things got a bit weird again somewhere near the 30' mark where we went up to a clip and then dropped back down for half a dozen feet to set up a traverse left on disappearing feet that coupled with a totter onto a good fin. Swim up the small fin to a nearly invisible jug and pull into a shallow corner for the route's only significant runout. And it's all 5.7 after that.
I'd go with three stars (two for the route, one for the weirdness) as well. Good solid rock, although it needs some serious flake removal, nicely designed pro, and a killer setting. The unusual hangers look as though you could rap from almost any point without fear of trashing the rope. The slightly surrealistic turrets at the top add to the line's appeal. Kudos to Bob and Vaino.
We accessed this route by climbing the Berlin Wall (Fall of the Wall), and then downclimbing the gully to the start. There is a two bolt anchor setup above 'fall of the wall' for rappells back down (need slings replaced.) Great route, although a little crumbly. Have your belayer wear sunglasses.
By Joe Collins Mar 12, 2004 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
Pretty nice climb. Its on the west face, so it not as warm as you might hope given the formation's name. The two pitches are very different in character... the first, steep and juggy, with the second, slabby with friction being key. V3? dyno to start the first pitch. I thought overall, the second pitch was unquestionably harder than the first, especially with the fact that the two cruxy sections involve friction on quite flakey/licheny rock.Weird moves. Solid 12a, I thought, though with some more cleaning the friction might be more reasonable. Watch the ends of your rope if you rap from the top of P2 to base of P1, and also on the rap down to the ledges at the base. Small rack of cams with a #1 and #2 Camalot for the 5.9 approach slot.
Great route. Angle of Repose is an excellent descriptor for the moves on the 2nd pitch. Not many hand-holds on that pitch -- when you get a 1/4 inch edge it feels like a jug.
We did a (new?) bolted route as the approach pitch that starts at the big pine tree to the right of the 5.9 slot. Climb past 4 bolts and then traverse up and left towards the base of Angle of Repose. You can also sling a horn midway so that you can do the approach pitch with no gear.
I've climbed the 1st pitch and the dyno is slightly Sharma-esque. 5' leap to a glued on jug... total Hollywood move! good luck.... I'm very disappointed where the anchors were placed on top of the 2nd pitch. The 2-bolt anchor has DEFACED! the classic 3rd pitch of the "LEFT SIDE" route. The 3rd pitch of the "Left Side" climbs that airy traverse above the lip of the huge roof and up an awesome 5.9 crack. At the top of the 5.9 crack, used to be a heady friction move, to gain the roof above where you can get gear to continue to the top. NOW, at the top of the crack there are 2 bolts right in front of your face. Instead of leaving the crack, with a nut below your feet, and smearing moves to the roof... There has been 2 bolts thoughtlessly placed in the middle of a CLASSIC ROUTE. I know Boulder Canyon is a great place for thoughtlessly placed bolts and I should get over it BUT.......this is unacceptable! I wish people would think before they drill....
I agree with Drew's comments. We'd been challenged by the classic Left Side, with its devious moves and relatively sparse pro, when all of a sudden I ran into bolts, so close I could clip them from the crack feature I was working my way up, around the middle of the 3rd pitch. Very weak to have a bolted sport route force its way right into a tricky section of a good trad route. Not only these two bolts next to the crack but also the anchor bolts, which totally change the character of that part of Left Side. Disappointing.