Angering The Angered
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 21 votes
Type: | Trad, 750 ft (227 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas summer 08' |
Page Views: | 2,116 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Tyler Phillips on Sep 13, 2008 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse.
Details
Little Cottonwood Access Update
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Description
P1. Climb path of least resistance to a left facing dihedral (this is about 30 ft. up). There is a hidden fixed ring pin before stepping up in the dihedral. Small cams will bring you to a bolt (use long sling), from the bolt traverse left on fun features; at the end of the traverse is a fixed angle (use long sling). From here launch straight up using big holds to the crux slab. Place some gear, clip the bolt (which will keep you off the foot ledge) and choose, do I throw right or left? Ends at a 2 bolt anchor. 5.9+ 110ft. Watch for rope drag.
P2. Climb up and trend right to a fixed pin then into another left facing dihedral. From the top of the dihedral is another fixed pin. Keep cruising straight up passing the nub of a pine tree and staying in the faux dihedral (the climbing is about 5.6-ish) placing gear when you can. Aim for a water streaked slab with a bolt. Make a cool slab move using an undercling and foot paste. Climb up into the left facing dihedral using cracks and pull up and over the roof to a good stance (the Seeing Red ledge) and a 2 bolt belay. 5.9+ 110ft.
P3. Ramble up and right (slight bushwhack) .Pull up onto the slab traversing left towards the chimney. Feel the air in your ass as you establish yourself in the chimney. Old school climbing brings you to a sloped ledge and a fixed pin and a spindly pine tree; optional gear for belay (recommended). 5.8+ 50ft.
P4. From the sloped ledge climb straight above the fixed belay pin into a left facing dihedral. Small cams help getting established here. From the top of the dihedral clip a fixed pin and climb up into the right to left traversing crack. A bulge thrown in the crack traverse makes you think. After the bulge, traverse left for another 15 or so feet, look up and spot the fixed pin on a clean slab. Ends a 2 bolt anchor. (Can run 3 and 4 together with lots of slings, expect drag however.) 5.9+ 90 ft.
Optional pitch 4: From the sloped belay ledge on P3 traverse around right to the low angle right to left traversing crack. Climb this skipping the steep part of P4. 5.9
P5. Climb up and right to a large ledge. There is a low angle hand crack running straight up this, at the top of the crack is a good ledge and belay/single rope rap station. This was put in to minimize rock fall from the traversing pitch onto the belayer, to help w/ communication and also serves as a short rap station. 5.6 40 feet
P6. Find pitons (numerous) and climb up and around the left side of the roof. From the stance/shelf system ramble straight up and left, watch out for pitons. Keep an eye out for a 2 bolt anchor by a big bush. 5.8 165 ft. (can run 5 and 6 together). The What the F*%K pitch
P7. From anchor climb up and right over some big blocks. Cool features on the slab will help you gain a low angle right facing dihedral, use double long slings here or move your belay closer to the start. Cruise up this to more low angle dihedrals staying to the right; be careful around the big block. Locate a fixed ring pin on a highly featured slab, above this is a bolt. From bolt make a right shuffle past the big pine tree (which really ends the good climbing) to a pine needle trough. Climb up for another 30+ feet (passing 2 pitons) over loose terrain to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8 200+ ft.
P2. Climb up and trend right to a fixed pin then into another left facing dihedral. From the top of the dihedral is another fixed pin. Keep cruising straight up passing the nub of a pine tree and staying in the faux dihedral (the climbing is about 5.6-ish) placing gear when you can. Aim for a water streaked slab with a bolt. Make a cool slab move using an undercling and foot paste. Climb up into the left facing dihedral using cracks and pull up and over the roof to a good stance (the Seeing Red ledge) and a 2 bolt belay. 5.9+ 110ft.
P3. Ramble up and right (slight bushwhack) .Pull up onto the slab traversing left towards the chimney. Feel the air in your ass as you establish yourself in the chimney. Old school climbing brings you to a sloped ledge and a fixed pin and a spindly pine tree; optional gear for belay (recommended). 5.8+ 50ft.
P4. From the sloped ledge climb straight above the fixed belay pin into a left facing dihedral. Small cams help getting established here. From the top of the dihedral clip a fixed pin and climb up into the right to left traversing crack. A bulge thrown in the crack traverse makes you think. After the bulge, traverse left for another 15 or so feet, look up and spot the fixed pin on a clean slab. Ends a 2 bolt anchor. (Can run 3 and 4 together with lots of slings, expect drag however.) 5.9+ 90 ft.
Optional pitch 4: From the sloped belay ledge on P3 traverse around right to the low angle right to left traversing crack. Climb this skipping the steep part of P4. 5.9
P5. Climb up and right to a large ledge. There is a low angle hand crack running straight up this, at the top of the crack is a good ledge and belay/single rope rap station. This was put in to minimize rock fall from the traversing pitch onto the belayer, to help w/ communication and also serves as a short rap station. 5.6 40 feet
P6. Find pitons (numerous) and climb up and around the left side of the roof. From the stance/shelf system ramble straight up and left, watch out for pitons. Keep an eye out for a 2 bolt anchor by a big bush. 5.8 165 ft. (can run 5 and 6 together). The What the F*%K pitch
P7. From anchor climb up and right over some big blocks. Cool features on the slab will help you gain a low angle right facing dihedral, use double long slings here or move your belay closer to the start. Cruise up this to more low angle dihedrals staying to the right; be careful around the big block. Locate a fixed ring pin on a highly featured slab, above this is a bolt. From bolt make a right shuffle past the big pine tree (which really ends the good climbing) to a pine needle trough. Climb up for another 30+ feet (passing 2 pitons) over loose terrain to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8 200+ ft.
Location
Walk up the Triangle Gully (recommended) or along the Coalpit Buttress. Where the Coalpit wraps around into the Triangle wall gully there is a flat spot under a roof with some ferns growing. The start is to the right of this roof
Protection
#0 - #4 Metoilus, #.5 to # 4 Camalot. QD's, lot's of shoulder slings very helpful. Helmet.
70m rope mandatory for rapping or 2 65 meter ropes which will minimize the raps by 2 or 3.
If rapping with a 70m from the top one must keep an eye out for the pine tree on the 1st rap over to the right. Then after 2 more raps you have to make a diagonal-ing rap back over the What the F%*K pitch. Then make the short annoying rap back to the top of the 4th. From here it's straight forward.
3 lead bolts and 20 pitons
70m rope mandatory for rapping or 2 65 meter ropes which will minimize the raps by 2 or 3.
If rapping with a 70m from the top one must keep an eye out for the pine tree on the 1st rap over to the right. Then after 2 more raps you have to make a diagonal-ing rap back over the What the F%*K pitch. Then make the short annoying rap back to the top of the 4th. From here it's straight forward.
3 lead bolts and 20 pitons
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