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This is an amazing route; it goes right the widest crack/chimney on the face. It is a very challenging and difficult route but one of the most fun routes I have ever climbed. You will use just about every climbing move that you know. There are actually 3 crux on this route. The cruxes are at the overhangs. The "crux" is at the giant block/chockstone in the middle. The only thing that I disliked about the route was that it was extremely dirty, a few times I had dirt fly into my eyes. The dirt in the crack really can't be cleaned out though.
Some people have expressed their dislike of this being a bolted route. John Gregory had it bolted because there is not many places in the chimney for bomber placement. Further more. John says that you will need 5 or more six 4 and bigger cams to trad climb it. It is hard to find one cam that size in the UAE let alone 5.
This route follows the widest line up the face. It is route number 4 on the topo.
This route is a sport route with brand new bolts and hangers. There are abseil anchors bolted at the top. You can also climb this route on TR.
It is a tight chimney so I advise taking off any unnecessary gear of your harness. I also do not recommend trying to trad climb this route.
BETA PHOTO: Here is a topo of the route.
Getting around the first overhang.
Dec 22, 2010
It is great pitch! almost a lot different style of climbing in 30 meters !!!
Jan 2, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13
This route was like a game. You had to use a lot of strategy and every move was different. I hardly used the same moves more than twice.