Angels Way  5.10d

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Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 89 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  John and Ian Gregory New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  ClimbFit on Nov 20, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: I would say that this route has two possible crux'...

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Description 

This is an amazing route; it goes right the widest crack/chimney on the face. It is a very challenging and difficult route but one of the most fun routes I have ever climbed. You will use just about every climbing move that you know. There are actually 3 crux on this route. The cruxes are at the overhangs. The "crux" is at the giant block/chockstone in the middle. The only thing that I disliked about the route was that it was extremely dirty, a few times I had dirt fly into my eyes. The dirt in the crack really can't be cleaned out though.

Some people have expressed their dislike of this being a bolted route. John Gregory had it bolted because there is not many places in the chimney for bomber placement. Further more. John says that you will need 5 or more six 4 and bigger cams to trad climb it. It is hard to find one cam that size in the UAE let alone 5.

Location 

This route follows the widest line up the face. It is route number 4 on the topo.

Protection 

This route is a sport route with brand new bolts and hangers. There are abseil anchors bolted at the top. You can also climb this route on TR.

It is a tight chimney so I advise taking off any unnecessary gear of your harness. I also do not recommend trying to trad climb this route.

Photos of Angels Way Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Here is a topo of the route.

Getting around the first overhang.