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Altered States Gully
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Bright Shining Lie S 
Air Express T 
Altered States T 
Angel's Ladder T 
Betty's Altered Elbow T 
Betty's In 3D T 
Clutching at Straws T 
Del Tongo T 
Discrete Feat T 
Dropping Out T 
Eagle Roof T 
Latter Day Sinner T 
Magic Circus T 
March of the Gummi Bears T 
Proscenium T 
Rhino's Chin, The T 
Romance on the Rocks T 
Sleight of Hand T 
Slip Slidin' T 
Sticky Fingers T 
Stumpy T 
Thoroughflare T 

Angel's Ladder 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R [details]
FA: Ken Gygi, Kent Jameson 1982
Page Views: 874
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Angel's Ladder slab.

Description 

A fine specimen of a nice long pitch of slab work (LCC style). Starts very thin, surmounts a small roof, and continues in runout style as it angles left and finally joins with Slip Slidin', just after the last bolt. The crux was from bolt 1 to 2, or just after clipping the last bolt.

Location 

This is the 2nd bolted route you come to on the east side of the gully. It is 2 minutes off the trail.

Protection 

6 draws for the route, a couple of cams (red Metolius, .75 Camalot) for under the roof (optional), a couple of larger pieces for the finish of Slip Slidin' (there is one piton), and extra slings for the tree in case they are crusty. Two rope rappel.


Photos of Angel's Ladder Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: W/o the lines,  Sorry about the trees, I forgot my...
BETA PHOTO: W/o the lines, Sorry about the trees, I forgot my...
Rock Climbing Photo: 1) Angel's Ladder  2) Slip Slidin'  3) Clutching a...
BETA PHOTO: 1) Angel's Ladder 2) Slip Slidin' 3) Clutching a...

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By Tim Wolfe
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 11, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

A very thin slab - basically no holds, just pure friction and you sometimes have to move before you slide of the transient friction hold you are on. Do this on a cold day. Both my partner and I logged big air on this route when we led it. One more of those LCC routes that will make you a master at slabs if your calf muscles are fit enough.

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