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 ADVANCED
Upper Major Mass & Jungle Gym Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel's Crack T,TR 
Cedar Tree Wall T,TR 
Corner Crack T,TR 
Corner Crack Face T,TR 
Crypt Variation, The T,TR 
Crypt, The T 
Dances with FIBs T,TR 
End of the Line T,TR 
Faith, Hope, and Charity T,TR 
Hidden Wall T,TR 
Indecision T,TR 
Jolly Roger T,TR 
Jungle Gym T 
Jungle Gym East Face T 
Mary Jane T,TR 
Rosemary's Baby T,TR 
Split Decision TR 
Three Kings T,TR 
W.A.R T,TR 

Angel's Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,807
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Jul 19, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Beautiful dihedral

Description 

Angel's Crack sits on the highest cliff band of the Major Mass of Doorway Rocks. Start the climb at a 5 ft tall slab. Once on top of this slab you will see a very flat face with vertical and horizontal cracks in it. This is the Jolly Roger. Angel's Crack is around the adjacent corner to the right. Climb up the dihedral using stemming and jamming moves. There are also plenty of blocks and ledges to hold. Continue up the dihedral and pass the arrowhead slab on your left. Climb out of the dihedral and finish on the face at the top.

To get to the top of Angel's Crack, hike along the Devil's Doorway Trail and take the short scenic trail that dips down to the famous Devil's Doorway formation. There is a staircase that passes between two short walls of rock on the east end of this short trail. If you walk down these stairs you will see an outcropping straight ahead. Angel's Crack faces south off the end of this outcropping.

To get to the bottom of the climb from here, walk back up the stairs discussed earlier and take a right (east) down the slope through the woods (before you get back to the main Devil's Doorway Trail). This is the gully that sits between the Major Mass and Minor Mass. Hug the rock on your right and pass right (south) through the first "saddle" you see. Go through the saddle and turn right again (west) with the rock still to your right. You are now on the ledge that separates the Upper and Lower bands of the Major Mass. In Swartling's book on diagram 33E, page 141, you are standing somewhere between the words "Access" and "Angel's Traverse". Scramble west about 100 feet until you get to the base of the climb.

Protection 

Standard Rack


Photos of Angel's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Doug Hemken leading "Angel's Crack" Apri...
Doug Hemken leading "Angel's Crack" Apri...
Adam just about to start the crux
Adam just about to start the crux
Tom Anderson-Brown on Angel's Crack just below the...
Tom Anderson-Brown on Angel's Crack just below the...
Adam,below the crux
Adam,below the crux
A headless Doug Hemken stemming to the heavens on ...
A headless Doug Hemken stemming to the heavens on ...
Adam just below the crux.
Adam just below the crux.
Dunbar
Dunbar

Comments on Angel's Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff H
Jun 14, 2002

Recently did this climb (6.01.02). It proved to be a very nice lead. Good pro, solid stances, and maybe a bit easy for the grade.
By wayniak
May 3, 2003

Great pro, big holds. This climb doesn't see as much climbing action as the main cliff band on the bluff, but stay away from this climb if you don't want to be bothered by tourists.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jul 22, 2005

One of the best 5.6 leads at the Lake!
By Tradoholic
Aug 6, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Agreed, great 5.6. I thought the pro left something to be desired at the start for ~20ft.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 11, 2011

I also agree with Doug, great lead!
By Peter Kaminski
May 20, 2012

Unexpected crux. Excellent.