Angel's Arete 

I have to say, I'm no runout champ and I was pleasantly surprised by the pro. Guess it all depends on your expectations.

I did not lead it, but my partner wsa repeating it. THe pro was all there, but seemed to envolved equalized nuts and other errta

There are a few decent equalized placements and a few micro wires, however there is nothing for the last 20+ feet of the climb.

There used to be a pin placed in a horizontal crack higher up -- just past the crux to the right of the arete. Last year I didn't see it. Also, I used to place iffy RP's behind a small detached flake to the left of the arete but that thing is now moving.

It would be idiotic to lead this. Great TR. Beautiful setting, easy access to hang the rope, challenging route.

There is gear if you can hang out to place it. I don't believe this route deserves the R rating, maybe PG13.

Ultra sweet and spooky. Ditto on the equalized micro wires. I think if you skip those it would probably deserve the R rating, aside from the last part. In any case, its no give away if going for an onsight. A must do for the grade, but as Ladd says, you probably won't repeat it lol!

Amazing climbing and fun heady run out. I used some small cams for the horizontals and backed them up with tri cams but I think if I were to repeat it (which I would even though I wanted to pee myself) I would just take two sets of tri cams and be done with it. Stances are good for placing gear and you get an incredible view at the top!

Seemed a bit overhyped to me. Felt no harder than 5.9 and I was able to place gear about every 8 - 10 feet.