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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Touch of Tango T 
Angel's Arete T,TR 
Are You An Idiot? T 
Are You Experienced? T 
Blunder and Frightening T,TR 
Butterbeans T 
Chockstone T,TR 
Dogfight T 
Dresden Corner T 
Easily Flakey T,TR 
Englishman's Crack T 
Gag Reflex T 
Handsome and Well-Hung T 
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Horton's Tree T 
International Incident T 
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Labor Day T 
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Let the Wind Blow S 
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Penalty Situation T,TR 
Raptured T 
Strategem, The S 
Strech Armstrong (a.k.a. Ruptured) S 
Team Machine S 
Tree Route, The T,TR 
Underfling T 
Zag T,TR 
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Angel's Arete 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, TR, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Swoager, Artz '85
Page Views: 2,847
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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BETA PHOTO: Zag and Angels Arete


Crux is the mind game (and the weird weight transfer) when rocking over onto the arete.
Climb the UBER-fun blunt arete that makes for a super fun toprope and a lead that you do and NEVER repeat


Arete right of Zag.


not enough pro

Maybe on your toprope it'll look like there is enough gear, but the gear would take up your only holds, once those small horizontals are filled what are you going to do?

Photos of Angel's Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Angel's Arete (5.10).
BETA PHOTO: Angel's Arete (5.10).
A washed out Angels Arete
BETA PHOTO: A washed out Angels Arete
Rob Rives leading Angels Arete
Rob Rives leading Angels Arete

Comments on Angel's Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Dillon
Apr 11, 2007

I have to say, I'm no runout champ and I was pleasantly surprised by the pro. Guess it all depends on your expectations.
By Brian Adzima
From: San Francisco
Apr 24, 2007

I did not lead it, but my partner wsa repeating it. THe pro was all there, but seemed to envolved equalized nuts and other errta
By Ladd Raine
From: Plymouth, NH
May 9, 2007

There are a few decent equalized placements and a few micro wires, however there is nothing for the last 20+ feet of the climb.
By Kris Gorny
May 15, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

There used to be a pin placed in a horizontal crack higher up -- just past the crux to the right of the arete. Last year I didn't see it. Also, I used to place iffy RP's behind a small detached flake to the left of the arete but that thing is now moving.
By attila
May 2, 2010

It would be idiotic to lead this. Great TR. Beautiful setting, easy access to hang the rope, challenging route.
By Justin Dansby
From: GA
Jul 25, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

There is gear if you can hang out to place it. I don't believe this route deserves the R rating, maybe PG13.
By Alan Howell
May 7, 2012

Ultra sweet and spooky. Ditto on the equalized micro wires. I think if you skip those it would probably deserve the R rating, aside from the last part. In any case, its no give away if going for an onsight. A must do for the grade, but as Ladd says, you probably won't repeat it lol!
By Will Sweeney
From: Zachariah, Kentucky
May 22, 2012

Amazing climbing and fun heady run out. I used some small cams for the horizontals and backed them up with tri cams but I think if I were to repeat it (which I would even though I wanted to pee myself) I would just take two sets of tri cams and be done with it. Stances are good for placing gear and you get an incredible view at the top!
By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
Dec 8, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

Seemed a bit overhyped to me. Felt no harder than 5.9 and I was able to place gear about every 8 - 10 feet.
By Sam Stephens
Jul 20, 2014

Super route, but that flake is on its way out. It's super flexy, moving about 1/4" by just pulling against it. Luckily you can stack bomber gear for the run out in the good horizontal. Not all that death defying, but definitely spicy.
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