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 ADVANCED
Glacier Point Apron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel's Approach 
Apron Jam 
Cold Fusion 
Cow-Center Route, The 
Cow-Left Side, The 
Cow-Right Side, The 
Galactic Hitchhiker 
Goblet, The 
Goodrich Pinnacle-Left Side 
Goodrich Pinnacle-Right Side 
Goodrich to the Oasis 
Grack - Center, The 
Grack - Left Side, The 
Grack, Marginal, The 
Grack, Right Side, The 
Lonely Dancer 
McPherson Struts 
Monday Morning Slab, Chouinard Crack 
Monday Morning Slab, Harry Daley Route 
Monday Morning Slab, Left Side 
Monday Morning Slab, Right Side 
Mr. Natural 
Patio Pinnacle, Regular Route 
Point Beyond 
Point Beyond Direct 
Variation on a Theme 
Unsorted Routes:

Angel's Approach 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tom Higgins et al
Page Views: 896
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Jun 9, 2009
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  • Description 

    Combined with "Point Beyond Direct" and "Point Beyond", this route is the equal of "Goodrich Pinnacle." Clean and pure slab climbing!

    P1 - (5.9) - follow the bolts upwards. About half of these were replaced in 2008. As you approach a large solution hole either traverse right (easier), or tag the hole and then traverse right. Belay at a two-bolt anchor near an overlap.

    P2 - (5.8) - more friction up the left edge of some flakes. Move up to a passage between two opposing thin flakes, right of the major overlap. There is decent finger-sized gear here. Continue up the flake to the right to another two-bolt anchor.

    P3 - (5.7) - more friction up and right to Lucifer's Ledges.


    Location 

    Start by getting to the Point Beyond. Left of the Point is a water groove. Just to the right of the groove is a line of bolts heading up towards Lucifer's Ledge.


    Protection 

    Mostly bolts (about half of which were replaced by the ASCA in the summer of 2008), but you will also want nuts and cams to 2".



    Photos of Angel's Approach Slideshow Add Photo
    From left of "Point Beyond", up the slab, then cut right.
    BETA PHOTO: From left of "Point Beyond", up the slab, then cut...
    Randy on P2
    Randy on P2
    Comments on Angel's Approach Add Comment
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    By jplaut
    Oct 24, 2012

    Although this route is technically not runout enough to warrant an "R" rating, it should be noted that the first bolt is around 25 ft. above the belay and a fall before clipping it would likely result in decking on the ledge. And, after that, the bolts are not very close together, maybe 15ft. apart at least. Be very confident on 5.9 slab before attempting.