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Flailing on the Angel Dyno
Highly aesthetic and (like all dynos) height dependent. Pull on to the first set of good edges, grab the next two and toss up and right to a not-so-great gaston. Stick it, match it, and top out easily with a big block. Good stuff. Also known as the John Long Dyno?
Dead center on the obvious, gently overhanging face of the boulder.
Pads and spotters - dynamic moves demand it.
Sticking the big dyno and praying I can control th...
|By John Long|
Jul 19, 2011
On the first ascent of this thing Randy Grandstaff told me it already went, so I chucked up off the initial holds and stuck the good one up high, then pulled off a huge loose block and almost pitched. It was impossible for the problem to have been climbed before and Randy said he was just funning me and I almost went after him for sandbagging me like that. We never had pads or spotters back then and I remember this was a rush to do because even though it's not too hard (I probably did it 50 times and never fell) you have to go for it pretty hard to get the boost, and you're flying out pretty far and as a consequence I saw some truly spectacular cartwheel rippers.