Angel Dust 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | eDixon on May 25, 2006 |
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Kevin on Angel Dust. His first trad lead.
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Description P1 - Start up the corner, move right and follow the broken crack system to a bolted anchor near a large tree.
Variation- Towards the top of the pitch, take the offwidth on the right and finish at the same anchor.
P2 - Climb the smaller crack on the right with a small tree in it.
Variation - Climb the offwidth on the left which rejoins the standard line.
Location This route starts in a right-facing corner a little to the left of Byrd's Classic.
Protection Standard East A rack - #3 Camalot. Bring a big cam if doing either of the OW variations.
By Jeramiah Paylor
From: Westminster, CO
Sep 21, 2007
| There is also a line to the right of the corner doing a 5.8 finger crack variation. |
By Kevin Sainio
From: Durango, CO
Jun 20, 2008
rating: 5.7
| Watch for the loose block about 25 feet up. It has been there for years so it is probably not going anywhere but be careful anyway, its a big one. |
By Lee Frazer
Sep 19, 2009
| Really fun route. I'd call the start harder than 5.7 though, especially for short people. |
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Apr 17, 2011
| This route is an ever-loosening pile. Save the effort and do Byrd's Classic instead. |
By Xander! Wyckoff
From: Durango, CO
May 30, 2011
| What do the corner and the offwidth go at? They don't feel like 5.7.... |
By eDixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Jul 12, 2011
| Kind of agree that this is a piece. I guess worth doing once to find that out for yourself. There are certainly better alternatives at the grade. |
By Dylan Weldin
From: Durango, CO
Jan 31, 2012
rating: 5.7
| Pile came down today.... Kevin and Chosspector were right :) I pulled off a few hundred pounds of rock today while seconding. The giant block first shifted under bodyweight (it appeared to be a solid jug that anyone else leading the route would have yarded on) then came down under a few pounds of pressure as I rappelled. The remaining crack appears suspect (i.e. wobbly). |
By Bill Grasse
From: Durango, CO.
May 14, 2012
| Whaaaat?! This climb is freaking AWESOME!!! A classic for sure! |
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