Angel Dust 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | eDixon on May 25, 2006 |
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Kevin on Angel Dust. His first trad lead.
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Description P1 - Start up the corner, move right and follow the broken crack system to a bolted anchor near a large tree.
Variation- Towards the top of the pitch, take the offwidth on the right and finish at the same anchor.
P2 - Climb the smaller crack on the right with a small tree in it.
Variation - Climb the offwidth on the left which rejoins the standard line.
Location This route starts in a right-facing corner a little to the left of Byrd's Classic.
Protection Standard East A rack - #3 Camalot. Bring a big cam if doing either of the OW variations.
By Jeramiah Paylor
From: Westminster, CO
Sep 21, 2007
| There is also a line to the right of the corner doing a 5.8 finger crack variation. |
By Kevin Sainio
From: Durango, CO
Jun 20, 2008
rating: 5.7
| Watch for the loose block about 25 feet up. It has been there for years so it is probably not going anywhere but be careful anyway, its a big one. |
By Lee Frazer
Sep 19, 2009
| Really fun route. I'd call the start harder than 5.7 though, especially for short people. |
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Apr 17, 2011
| This route is an ever-loosening pile. Save the effort and do Byrd's Classic instead. |
By Xander! Wyckoff
From: Durango, CO
May 30, 2011
| What do the corner and the offwidth go at? They don't feel like 5.7.... |
By eDixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Jul 12, 2011
| Kind of agree that this is a piece. I guess worth doing once to find that out for yourself. There are certainly better alternatives at the grade. |
By Dylan Weldin
From: Durango, CO
Jan 31, 2012
rating: 5.7
| Pile came down today.... Kevin and Chosspector were right :) I pulled off a few hundred pounds of rock today while seconding. The giant block first shifted under bodyweight (it appeared to be a solid jug that anyone else leading the route would have yarded on) then came down under a few pounds of pressure as I rappelled. The remaining crack appears suspect (i.e. wobbly). |
By Bill Grasse
From: Durango, CO.
May 14, 2012
| Whaaaat?! This climb is freaking AWESOME!!! A classic for sure! |
By CJK
From: Aztec, New Mexico
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.8-
| Just climbed this route, and the start is not 5.7, but the rest of it is for sure. Try both variations to see what you think, the OW variation is not 5.7. |
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