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(Closed) Andromeda Sprain

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Andromeda Sprain Wall, The 
Katy Cliff 
Walkdown Area 

(Closed) Andromeda Sprain Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.9663, -92.3374 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,598
Administrators: Dave Hug, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on May 12, 2007
Forecast:
This Afternoon

91° | 69°
Thursday

86° | 66°
Friday

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Saturday

84° | 69°
Sunday

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Monday

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Cimber at the anchor of Psychiatry Kills on a grea...

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Description 

Partly shady climbing along the Katy Trail. This area boasts tall climbs on good limestone. Hot on summer afternoons, though.

Getting There 

This is the cliffline along the Katy Trail, west of Columbia by I-70. Directions will currently not be provided, due to the sketchy access (see note).

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 1.9 miles from here

17 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',8],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in (Closed) Andromeda Sprain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for (Closed) Andromeda Sprain:
Andromeda Sprain   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   The Andromeda Sprain Wall
Doctor Hook   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   The Andromeda Sprain Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in (Closed) Andromeda Sprain

Featured Route For (Closed) Andromeda Sprain
Rock Climbing Photo: the crux, hence the "dr. hook"

Doctor Hook 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  MO : XM: Closed Areas : ... : The Andromeda Sprain Wall
Climb the low angled choss to the first bolt. Rest, and then fire up the steep face following large positive pockets. Pull over the roof on the rail systems and clip the anchors. Though short, this route is very fun and power packed.Climbing past the anchor and three more bolts makes this a 5.12 outing. It may or may not have anchors, though, because the ones that were there have been chopped....[more]   Browse More Classics in MO

Comments on (Closed) Andromeda Sprain Add Comment
Show which comments
By aluke
From: PHX, AZ
Mar 28, 2009
Very sad that this area recently closed. Hopefully it will reopen soon!
By Elijah Flenner
Mar 28, 2009
I would just like to clarify that this area has ALWAYS been closed. People have been climbing there for many years, but most (all?) never had the permission of the land owners. Good luck in getting it open; for the first time. It would be fantastic if Andromeda was officially open to climbing.

Note that Mountain Project has always listed this area as closed.
By Erik Kowalczyk
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 21, 2015
I picked up a Central Missouri Climber's Guidebook a few weeks ago and there was no information about closures in this area. I am curious about the access information if anyone has it.
By Lukus
From: St. Louis
Dec 2, 2015
Erik, As of the last time I talk to the landowner that owned the land along the top of bluff line climbing is strictly forbidden. The Katy Trail people haven't got back to me about climbing here.
By Jer Collins
Dec 18, 2015
A note on Andromeda access-
I have been climbing here for 20 years, and others for much longer.

In the 90's we used to park above on Roby Farm Road until one day the farmer who leases the land from the owner asked a large group of climbers not to cross his pasture. Out of respect of that request, the new approach then became driving to Huntsdale, parking at Katfish Katies, and taking the Katy trail three miles north to the crag. Biking is advised. It's a lovely warmup.

When you DO approach from above you see that above the cliffs is Corps of Engineer signage before hitting the cliffs edge. The trail itself is indicated as a state park. Neither state parks or Corps Land has stated umbrella rules against climbing. After looking at numerous maps I'm not entirely sure WHO owns the rock itself. On the opposite side of the trail is conservation area. To be honest I'd prefer NOT know.

In the past, rangers have driven down on the trail to Andromeda based on complaints from bikers from fear of getting hit by falling rocks. No-one I have ever talked to has confirmed the rumored arrests, citations and penalties from climbing at Andromeda.

For 30 years climbers have enjoyed climbing here respectfully and maybe under the radar. IF you are comfortable with this and can abide by this approach, then Andromeda is an AMAZING place to climb. If the grey area makes you uncomfortable then don't climb here. Personally I do not need a sign posted "Climbing Allowed Here" when for three decades its gone on just fine with no confirmed legal situations.

Just climb quietly and respectfully. Don't hassle the bikers and hikers passing by, and don't screw it up for the rest of us.

If the "long" approach concerns you, Providence is right down the road with a two minute approach and tons of great routes too.

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