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 ADVANCED
The Fin
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Andrology T,S 
CG's Naked Fun Time S 
Dynamometer T,S 
East of Eden T,TR 
Edge of Time S,TR 
Lost Time T,S 
Slabbed Up-Side da Head S 

Andrology 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Andy Brown, Bernard and Robert Gillett, 1997
Page Views: 6,690
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 17, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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BETA PHOTO: Jurassic Park, showing the major formations.

Upda...

Description 

From pre-2009: Andrology is an ultra-classic line on a gorgeous piece of rock. In its previous state, a top rope rehearsal was highly advised for the 30 foot runout to the first clip, since the first bolt had been chopped. This start was "ankles for sure" if you blew it getting to the first clip.

Andrology follows a series of huecos and exciting face climbing up the longest and steepest part of The Fin, and it puts everything else to shame in terms of high quality face climbing. Andrology is one hundred times better climbing than the area classic "Edge of Time". Two things happened to make this line become one of the best 5.11+ routes in the Valley (Estes!!): the start was retrobolted in 2009-10 to match the rest of the route. Second, the double bolt anchor on top got new chains to clip from the top of the face. This set up a bee-line rap to the ground using a 60 meter rope. Andrology is a terrific piece of climbing, and it deserved the trivial amount of effort required to turn it into what it should be. N.B.: the huecos are a bit sandy, so watch the feet.

Per Jon Lachelt: near the top, the bolt line veers slightly to the left, and then you follow a thin seam back to the right to reach the chains.


Protection 

Originally, you needed ten draws and several mid-size Camalots to protect this and the bolts were over the top. Also, it is possible to scramble to the top of The Fin to set up a TR.

Per Jonathan Siegrist: my father and I added chains to the anchors of this route so that you can lower off instead of having to walk off.

Per Jon Lachelt: Camalots are no longer necessary to lead the route.


The current bolt count is pending, so bring more than 10 quickdraws to lead the route!


Location 

This is the steep line just right of the arete, Edge of Time. It is the leftmost bolted line on this face.



Photos of Andrology Slideshow Add Photo
Andrology, great line!
Andrology, great line!
At the crux of Andrology. September, '13.
At the crux of Andrology. September, '13.
Andrology, The Fin, Jurassic Park.
Andrology, The Fin, Jurassic Park.
Making moves on Andrology.
Making moves on Andrology.
Cold day on Andrology. Where was the sun!?
Cold day on Andrology. Where was the sun!?
Ian Dory stylin' on Andrology.
Ian Dory stylin' on Andrology.
Allie enjoying herself.
Allie enjoying herself.
At the upper crux on TR. Cool shot lookin' down The Fin.
At the upper crux on TR. Cool shot lookin' down Th...
Ian Dory enjoying the middle of Andrology.
Ian Dory enjoying the middle of Andrology.
Ending the small stuff and getting ready for those midroute jugs.
Ending the small stuff and getting ready for those...
Mike Burdon on Andrology. 2010.
Mike Burdon on Andrology. 2010.
Addison Duke cruising.
Addison Duke cruising.
Comments on Andrology Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 10, 2014
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
May 9, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The first bolt has been replaced. It is still very exciting, with long but safe runouts. Still crunchy also....

By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
May 30, 2004

The fourth bolt can currently be moved around a little bit in its hole (not just the hanger, but the bolt itself). I'm not sure a fall onto it would be a wise idea. Although the climbing on this pitch is quite good, in my opinion the rock quality isn't that great.

By joell
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 24, 2005

The bolts on the top can be used for setting up a top rope, but bring lots of extension. I used a 20' cordellette (spread to 3 bolts) plus 4' sling to get the rope over the edge.

This route is long, impressive, and quite pumpy.

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Jul 16, 2007

Just got on this yesterday (7/15/07) and the 4th bolt is definitely loose. The combination of the loose bolt and the hollow rock makes this very sketchy, and I wouldn't trust the bolt to hold a fall. The moves above the bolt are not to hard though and the 5th bolt is very solid. If someone replaces the bolt, they should probably put in a 6" bolt to try and get past the crappy rock on the surface.

By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Aug 12, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Yesterday my father and I added chains to the anchors of this route so that you can lower off instead of having to walk off.

Finally this fantastic route can be enjoyed without the f*$king hastle of walking off/not being able to pull rope or TR, etc.

By John Calder
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 24, 2007

I thought those chains looked new. I was there on the 17th of this month, and thought, damn these things are shiny!. Thanks for doing that.

By Bryant Noble
From: Carbondale, IL
Dec 3, 2007

Stellar route. I did it around June of 2007. Glad to hear there are chains now. I can't wait to be back someday to get the redpoint. The quality of rock on this route is definitely a drawback, but with a few new solid bolts and a little more traffic to clear off the dirtiness and loose holds it could be an uber classic. I ripped off a big flake in the gully at the top and almost shattered my belayer's skull. Might want to wear a helmet for this one belayers.

By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Jul 3, 2009

The fourth bolt is still loose (again, not just the hanger but the bolt itself) as of 7/1/09. I don't really know how to fix such things.... The chains up top are really handy though, thanks for putting those on!
EXCELLENT route!

By Patrick Kehoe
From: Fort Collins
May 22, 2010

They fixed all the bolt issues. These runouts are as safe as it gets. The rock quality isn't perfect, but I don't think it will cause you problems.

By brain damage
Sep 12, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R

Wow, this is one of the best climbs I have been on, I give 5 stars. Super sustained, and very pumpy. Tiny crimpers for a ways then jugs for climbing. You need a great head for lead climbing, climbing the bolts is super sketch, sometimes 15 foot runouts. Probably a hard 12 in Boulder Canyon.

By Brent Butler
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2013

This is an awesome pitch, clean and continuous climbing. I wouldn't call it sustained though: a lot of 5.10 climbing interrupted by a 11c lower crux and then the 12a crux right at the last 2 closely spaced bolts. The bolts are spaced out, but they are where they need to be. Because of this though, I would offer a warning to most of today's "5.12 sport" climbers: this isn't Movement.

By Steven Andrew King
Jun 10, 2014

Broke a left handhold between 5th and 6th bolts today and kicked off some kitty litter throughout. Shouldn't effect the difficulty of the route much: still a fine line despite the fact that many of the holds are hollow and decomposing. Apparently the current weight limit for the ride is 185 lbs. I promise to go on a diet before attempting again.