Type: | Sport, TR |
FA: | Andy Brown, Bernard and Robert Gillett, 1997 |
Page Views: | 23,459 total · 88/month |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on May 16, 2002 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Previously: per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Description
Andrology follows a series of huecos and exciting face climbing up the longest and steepest part of The Fin, and it puts everything else to shame in terms of high quality face climbing. Andrology is one hundred times better climbing than the area classic "Edge of Time". Two things happened to make this line become one of the best 5.11+ routes in the Valley (Estes!!): the start was retrobolted in 2009-10 to match the rest of the route. Second, the double bolt anchor on top got new chains to clip from the top of the face. This set up a bee-line rap to the ground using a 60 meter rope. Andrology is a terrific piece of climbing, and it deserved the trivial amount of effort required to turn it into what it should be. N.B.: the huecos are a bit sandy, so watch the feet.
Per Jon Lachelt: near the top, the bolt line veers slightly to the left, and then you follow a thin seam back to the right to reach the chains.
Protection
Originally, you needed ten draws and several mid-size Camalots to protect this and the bolts were over the top. Also, it is possible to scramble to the top of The Fin to set up a TR.
Per Jonathan Siegrist: my father and I added chains to the anchors of this route so that you can lower off instead of having to walk off.
Per Jon Lachelt: Camalots are no longer necessary to lead the route
Per Alex Mandrila: 8 bolts and an anchor with chains and lower off hooks.
Location
This is the steep line just right of the arete, Edge of Time. Per Lee Kennedy: the first is a mixed line with bolts starting ~30 feet up, and this is the first fully bolted line on this face.
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