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West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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Android Tilt 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Brooks & partner, 1980s
Fixed Hardware: 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 471
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Starting the crux.

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is another addition to the "Obsure Tour" list that several of us are making. Not even Rossiter has it quite right in the books, as there is no bolt anywhere on the line or near it.

On the West Ridge, about midway between Xanadu and Chockstone, there is a broken face that goes up to a 10' tall, shallow dihedral, which faces more or less, left. At the top of this dihedral is a triangular roof, which is passed on the left to reach a tree, growing in yet another shallow left-facing dihedral.

Although the seam of the dihedral offers no pro, there is a splitter thin-finger to finger crack on the wall at the left of it. Take several pieces to place in this section, as it will likely be your only pro for the crux, and it is reasonable.

Passing the roof is the crux, and after that you can either continue up moderate climbing until you reach a ledge to walk to a rap (as for Xanadu) or make a rap somewhere on your own. The tree in the route seemed OK, but I did not personally test it.

The moves are fun, and perhaps a shade hard at their grade, but the crux is short. There are certainly more worthy routes nearby. I wondered at how this route managed to get a star (1/1) in the book.

Protection 

The first part of the route is easy (below 5.8) and I didn't really protect it. As the route approaches difficulty, there is a finger crack in the left side which can take protection.

Per Brent Apgar: there are 2 bolts with chains at the top.


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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 9, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Short, but fun and a worthy tick if in the area. 1-1/2 stars. As Tony mentions, don't look too hard for the bolt noted in the Rossiter guide. It doesn't exist.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Dec 3, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I wouldn't call the crack a "finger crack" unless you have infant-sized fingers. The crack does take 00 and 0 C3s quite well though.
By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Mar 11, 2012

No one had mentioned it. But there is a 2 bolt anchor w/ chains at the top of this route. At least as of March 2012.