Android Power Pack 

This is indeed "super-stout". Probably a touch harder than the rating. The crux comes fairly quickly. After the shared opening moves of Yellow Christ, a quick bump left to a small but good undercling sets you up to move your feet to very small foot holds for a deadpoint to a not-positive sidepull at full extension.

The next moves are very difficult, and desperate. After the most strenuous bit, you are deposited on a jug (for that route, at least), that leads to easier, yet still continuously rowdy climbing that uses a lot of side pulls and big moves aided by some good low-heel hooks. This bit of climbing, while easier, is some of the best-feeling movement on rock you'll ever experience.

No gear, but two bolts at the top are set just right for a TR.

Wow. The only thing that kept me from giving this thing four stars was the lack of pro, forcing a toprope. Amazing movement. I'm not too good with grades, and this thing fit my style perfectly, so I'm not going to submit a grade. Anyway, it doesn't really matter, so long as the general idea is right, which in this case I think it is I'd like to lead it, but the utter lack of pro would make headpoint-soloing it a bit more practical...