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Android-Moby Dick link-up 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Mar 28, 2010
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Simon in the v-notch
Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

1. From the GT ledge, climb about halfway up the left side of the large pinnacle. Go up and left until you can easily traverse left 25 or 30 feet under the ceiling to a short, blocky, right-facing corner. Go over the roof near the corner, then trend right, passing some white rock, to a belay under a large roof. 5.8

2. Traverse straight left about 20 feet, go up a bit, then take the obvious hand traverse left under a roof to a V notch in the ceiling. (The acute shape of the notch makes it easy to recognize) Climb up through the notch (crux). Finish straight up.


Location 

The climb begins from the GT ledge. From the base of the Twilight Zone corner, the pinnacle which is your starting point is about 125 feet or so to the right as you face the rock.


Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack, include doubles of #3 Camalot



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By JSH
Administrator
Mar 29, 2010

I did Moby Dick itself as a (single) pitch having started from Andrew, so I aimed towards the traverse left a bit below where you're describing - on a tighty-whitey face. At any rate, I thought the notch looked a lot like V3, so that's what I was expecting - it certainly is different!