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 ADVANCED
Andrews Creek & The Gash
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Adaptive Methods T 
Andrews Glacier 
Andrews Tower, North Face T 
Chiropractic Couloir 
Chockstones of Unusual Size (C.O.U.S.) 
Flour Power Couloir 
Northwest Gully of Sharkstooth 
Ol' Dawg Chimney T 

Andrews Tower, North Face 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a M5 Steep Snow PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a M5 [details]
FA: Dougald MacDonald & Greg Sievers
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,750
Submitted By: Greg Sievers on Apr 2, 2009

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GS making choices and beginning P3.

Description 

From the rocky ground that separates the lower snowfield and Andrews Glacier (adjacent to Tarn Lake), turn south and scramble up a few hundred vertical feet.

We dropped packs on the eastern edge of the gully (that comprises most of this route).

P1 - climb mixed snow/rock for 200', M3-4.

P2 - we stepped right and climbed a very steep and sustained corner (M5). After 60' traverse back left, and climb the upper chimney.

P3 - very steep snow and M4 terrain, up under the cornice/pillow. At the headwall, we took a hard left to the arete.

P4 - turn right on the ridge - mostly snow. Connect the dots to the Col.

P5 - traverse due west along a very awkward rock ledge and then up (5.3) to the summit block.

Location 

This 'tower' lays immediately south of Andrews Glacier just above Tarn Lake.

To descend: downclimb the east snowfields (Alpine snow III) or hike/climb south along the apex of the ridge to the Continental Divide - turn right and retreat by the north snowfield down to the Tarn, or go to Andrews Glacier and then back to the base, and your stash.

I think our descent route on the east-facing snowfields would make a superb spring climb of a very moderate nature, on good styrofoam (if you climb it in the afternoon or a cold cloudy day), and you'll enjoy a really beautiful tower type summit.

Protection 

Single rock rack, w/ 3 KB. No screws or pickets.
Yhere are no anchors on the summit and none needed. Downclimb the easy rock back to the Col.


Photos of Andrews Tower, North Face Slideshow Add Photo
GS following P4.
GS following P4.
Red line is the route, blue line is the descent we...
Red line is the route, blue line is the descent we...
Andrews Tarn Lake below the route, and western Oti...
Andrews Tarn Lake below the route, and western Oti...
Dougald following P3.
Dougald following P3.
Dougald finishing P2. We did not climb this obviou...
Dougald finishing P2. We did not climb this obviou...
Greg begining the initial lead of P1 after scrambl...
Greg begining the initial lead of P1 after scrambl...
Andrews Tower, as seen from the west (on Andrews G...
Andrews Tower, as seen from the west (on Andrews G...
Route showing P1, 2, 3.
Route showing P1, 2, 3.
GS on summit of Andrews Tower 3-21-09.
GS on summit of Andrews Tower 3-21-09.
Dougald following P1.
Dougald following P1.
Doogle on the top of P3, pulling the KB, under the...
Doogle on the top of P3, pulling the KB, under the...
Looking up the crux second pitch. (Camera was mist...
Looking up the crux second pitch. (Camera was mist...

Comments on Andrews Tower, North Face Add Comment
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By Chris Sheridan
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 3, 2009

Nice work guys! Looks like a really cool route. Can't wait to get on it.

Chris
By Dougald MacDonald
Apr 3, 2009

Couple of notes on the descent. Down-climbing the east face is only an option in very stable snow conditions. Stay off this face in warm sun. The traverse along the ridge to the Divide would be the classiest option, but it requires a technical pitch (rock/mixed) out of the notch, and possibly additional technical climbing beyond. Allow a couple of hours for this "descent." The best option might be to establish a rappel route down the steep gully to the west. Looks like you could get down to scrambling territory in roughly three double-rope rappels from the summit. We found two sling anchors (on the east face and on the north face); we believe these were used during summer ascents of the tower.

Also, note that big cornices threaten the north face route throughout the winter and spring. Choose the day for your climb wisely.

Finally, to echo what Greg said about the east face (the blue line in his photo): This would make a great mountaineering route in good snow conditions, with interesting snow climbing, a bit of mixed ground and rock climbing, and a cool summit. A cold or cloudy day in April or early May would probably be best.