Andrews Creek & The Gash Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The Gash.
This covers the area surrounding the upper Andrews Creek drainage and The Gash, starting roughly from just beyond the Cathedral Wall to the south and Zowie to the north, all the way west to Andrews Glacier and the basin that makes up The Gash to the south. While there isn't much (if any) ice here, this area is chockful of couloirs, at least 10 alone on the south face of Otis that I've never heard anything about and several more in the Gash.
L->R: Andrews' Tower Andrews' Tower, North Face
, III 3 M5, 5p, 800'. Sharkstooth Flour Power Couloir
, WI2- steep snow, 1000'. Northwest Gully of Sharkstooth
, snow, 3p. Forbidden Tower Ol' Dawg Chimney
, M5, 4p, 700'. Chiropractic Couloir
, snow, 8p. Andrews Glacier Andrews Glacier
, snow, 5p, 1000'. Otis Peak Adaptive Methods
, III 9 WI4 M4, 4p, 800'. The Production
, IV M7 PG-13, 5p, 800'. Brain Freeze
, IV M5+, 8p, 1000'. Zowie/Wham area Chockstones of Unusual Size (C.O.U.S.)
, III M6-7, 4p, 800'. Wham Couloir
, M4, 3p, 400'.
Head up the trail to The Loch, and about a half mile beyond you'll cross a small log bridge over a creek (Andrews Creek) immediately after which you'll see a sign for Andrews Glacier. This trail doesn't see much traffic during the snowy months, so often times it's difficult to follow (it doesn't get packed down much either, so you usually end up post-holing), but if all else fails, follow the creek. Eventually it curves around to the left and suddenly opens up to reveal the spectacular south face of Otis (including Zowie) and way off to the west, Andrews Glacier. You can't see much of The Gash from here, but it's the basin just left (south) of Andrews Glacier with the dramatic spire of Sharkstooth at its end.
Climbing Season For the Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice area.
Weather station 8.8 miles from here
12 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Andrews Creek & The Gash
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Andrews Creek & The Gash
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Andrews Creek & The Gash:
M4 Easy Snow Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, 800'
M5+ Steep Snow Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'
Featured Route For Andrews Creek & The Gash
M5+ Steep Snow CO
: CO Ice & Mixed
: ... : Andrews Creek & The Gash
Brain Freeze climbs a series of gullies, corners and roofs up the right side of the Solar Wall on the south face of Otis Peak, directly behind Zowie. The route follows the first 300 feet of the Standard Route on the Solar Wall, then breaks up and left to follow a parallel gully system on the steeper face above.The middle section of the route offers continuously difficult climbing up narrow chutes, steep chimneys and overhanging chockstone cruxes. Belay caves form below the two chockstone cruxe...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Andrews Glacier ski approach, Oct. 2013.