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Brian approaching the final overhangs
P1 Climb the right face of the corner to the GT ledge. 5.3PG, 100 ft.
P2 Walk right about 50 feet to large oak tree, just below and to the left of a flaky right facing corner.
P3 Climb the short face to big ledge. Climb the flaky right facing corner to overhang; traverse right about 15 feet to brown groove, follow the groove, and go right into corner. Traverse right about 20 feet to flaky left facing corner. Climb the corner to a small ledge, and move up left then right to a small belay ledge. 5.4, 90 ft.
P4 Move up to big horizontal, traverse right and up to the top. 5.2, 40 ft.
Start 40 feet to the right of Proctoscope, up 40 feet on ledges, 20 feet below a large right-facing corner. It is right under the huge Twilight Zone roof.
standard gunks rack
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 8, 2009
This is a nice climb, I would not call it a 3 star classic. P1 starts way off the ground (40 feet of easy scrambling to a ledge) and goes up the right face of the huge corner. It was a little tricky placing pro, I really had to look around quite a bit. P3 is the money pitch, with doubles you can like p3 and p4.
|By John Peterson|
Aug 8, 2009
This is one of the best photo spots in the Gunks. If you can get someone to go out to the edge at the top of Twilight Zone you'll get a great shot of the last pitch.
From: North Kingstown, RI
Aug 20, 2009
The top can be easly reached from the GT ledge with a single rope and judicious use of 2 ft runners. If you are a new leader and getting rope drag just build an anchor.
The description of P3 above is the way many (most?) people do it due to protection issues but it is actually a variation (at least according to the black Williams guidebook). The original route goes right up to a flaky left facing corner with some very old pins and ends up in the same rightward diagonal.
Aug 5, 2010
I usu. do it Brian's way (i.e. move right lower than the described line). But if you go that way BEWARE - there is a large chunk of rock that is looking to fall on your belayer from about 30' up the pitch. It the right end of a large, solid block that somehow is broken cleanly off (hit by lightning is my guess) and now just sits on a small edge. In any event, this is a poorly protected pitch, def. not a good intro to leading at the grade.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: West Sand Lake, New York
Apr 8, 2012
rating: 5.4 PG13
Definitely can link the last pitches, we just did! Just extend EVERYTHING. On P3 the gear at the top of the first flakey corner before you move right is a manky .75 cam. If you don't have a strong lead head, this may be quite the intimidating 5.4! The traverse moves and exposure are awesome, better than Yum Yum Yab Yum IMHO. Definitely PG13 though.
The Pitch 2 "large oak tree" is not "large". It's a lone, half dead tree in the middle of the ledge below the right facing flakey corner. Should be obvious.
I agree - Pitch 1 seemed to be lacking in obvious gear. My leader just ran those parts out, but looking around as I climbed I didn't see much either. Thankfully it's 5.3
Jun 12, 2012
P2 - If keep going north on the GT ledge horizontally to the "large" multi-trunk tree, then you're in the wrong place to start the third pitch. Anyway finding the correct (as Kevin points out) non-large single-trunk oak tree is not the point. There's a larger not-so-flaky right-facing corner starting like 10-15 feet up, somewhat to the left of the single-trunk tree. And there's a flaky not-as-large right-facing corner starting like 30 feet up, somewhat to the right of that tree. The key point is to begin P3 by heading up to the higher + flakier corner a bit right of above the single-trunk tree.
P1 - No one would accuse this first pitch of being the most interesting or well-protected 5.3 pitch in the Gunks. Felt to me like lots of straightforward 5.1-5.2 face climbing, with a couple of sorta interesting 5.3-ish moves up higher.
I'd call some of the 5.2 sections PG/R and the 5.3 moves I'd call G/PG. The 5.2-ish sections have flary horizontal cracks, so bring your favorite non-large cams - (don't rely on stoppers).
Start - Seemed like I hiked more than 40 feet (northeast) past the Proctoscope crack, then scrambled up and back to reach the bottom of the Andrew corner.
|By Ben Brotelho|
From: Albany, NY
Jun 27, 2012
A lot of fun, actually! The 2nd pitch (if you don't count walking 50' to the right to set up a new belay as a pitch, which I don't), is a little back-and-forth to find holds, but they are all there (gear was kinda sparse, tho) Looking back at the roof of Twilight Zone with it's perpetual jewelry of fixed gear is awesome...and there is a great little pod to belay in and enjoy the view.
The third pitch was extremely easy, but had wicked cool bone-white rock, and really brings you up and over the valley below...very cool. There may be a wasps nest on this pitch right in the huge hand-ledge on the traverse.
All-in-all, fun route with a little bit of an adventurous feel, mostly awesome rock, and no crowds!
Aug 4, 2012
Sharon + I thought P3 + P4 were great today. Fun moves, reasonably well-protected (I carried doubles of all cams Camalot #1 or smaller down to around Mastercam 0 / C3 0). She said she felt well-protected following except for one place, and we both agree that it was because I wasn't carrying doubles of Camalot #2, so I could make only one placement in one of the later horizontal traverse cracks.
I led with double ropes and used lots of long runners, so it worked well to combine P3 + P4, with a great belay spot at the top for good communication. (Actually I was not intending to combine them, but I was never sure I had found the correct belay for P3, so I just kept going).
We both felt that P3 was not so hard, and that the only full 5.4 move was the reach to the ledge + mantle on P4.
Sharon said she also liked climbing P1 ... Since she was following, she felt she could choose to climb as difficult a line with as small holds as she wanted.
Mar 29, 2013
Great route, nice rock, and NO crowds. The first pitch starts off super easy with sparse pro and as you go higher it gets gradually more difficult (maybe only a couple 5.3 moves near the pin.
We linked the second and third pitches (not including the walk along the GT ledge) and it was well worth it. Just extend everything you put in and enjoy those airy traverses!
Overall, quality route if you're sick of the uberfall crowds. And its fun to gawk at all the shiny pro and crazy moves on Twilight Zone.