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Andalucia
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El Chorro 
El Torcal 
Grazalema 
Jaén 
Loja 


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Andalucia 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Silvia Fitzpatrick on Jun 27, 2009

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The Frontales, a small portion of El Chorro.

Description 

The massive province of Andalucia runs down the south eastern coastline of spain and contains lots of great cragging.

The major areas are El Chorro, Loja, Archidona, Grazalema, Turon, El Cahorros and Villanueva del Rosario. The region also includes the high alpine area of the Sierra Nevada.

There are some good guides to the areas; the Rockfax El Chorro guide covers a lot of the most popular central crags, David Munilla's Andalucia guide covers more areas in less detail and I am trying to document the climbing areas around Malaga and Villanueva del Rosario.

The rock is largely limestone and there are lots of options that allow climbing pretty much year round - despite the region being quite far south.

The popular crags of El Chorro are often busy, but the majority of the crags are quite quiet.


Getting There 

The airports of Malaga, Granada and Seville are all good access points.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Andalucia:
Vas pisando huevos. (you are walking on eggs)   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Zona de las Frontales : Sector castrojo
Alien girl   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Zona de las Frontales : Sector los Albercones
Orinco   5.10-     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Grazalema : Sector Placas del Cortijo
Cacique   5.10-     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Grazalema : Sector Placas del Cortijo
Amptrax   5.10-     Trad, 8 pitches, 600 feet   Zona de las Frontales : Apmtrax Area
Chica pelirroja   5.10-     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Zona de las Frontales : Sector los Albercones
El vuelo de los peluos   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Zona de las Frontales : Sector los Albercones
Patranas   5.10b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Zorreras Altas : Sector Central
Africa   5.10+     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   The Gorge : Africa Wall
Buena Sombra   5.10+     Sport, 100 feet   Desplomilandia : Buena Sombra
Zeppelin   5.11     Trad, 10 pitches, 1000 feet   The Gorge : Sector Zeppelin
Browse More Classics in Andalucia

Featured Route For Andalucia
Zeppelin Topo courtesy of Bernabe Fernandez

Zeppelin 5.11  International : Spain : ... : Sector Zeppelin
One of the best routes in El Chorro! This long classic route has it all - an excellent slab pitch, a thuggy roof, a cruxy face pitch, a body wrenching mini-dihedral w/ finger locks, and a technical and exposed arete! All in a wildly unique and beautiful setting.The route should be viewed as a tradition route because of the nature of the wall, but in reality you'll probably place five or six wires on only one pitch and all belays have two bolts. The rest of the pitches are either incredibly ea...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Andalucia Slideshow Add Photo
Looking east from the unique area of Torcal de Antequera.

Looking east from the unique area of Torcal de Ant...

Tristan, 6a. Sector Placas Del Cortijo, Grazalema.

Tristan, 6a. Sector Placas Del Cortijo, Grazalema....

Torcal de Antequera.

Torcal de Antequera.

The classic 8a at Loja in Andalucia - Vibraciones Positiva. There are 2 cruxes - one technical crux low down and a long reach at 25m for a big hold...my feet always came off and holding the swing was fun.

The classic 8a at Loja in Andalucia - Vibraciones ...


Comments on Andalucia Add Comment
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By D. Durrant
Oct 1, 2009

Andalucia is a sport climbers paradise. Beautiful, varied rock with the amazing setting of southern Espana. One could spend months climbing at El Chorro and never repeat the same route. El Torcal de Antequera was a wild place, with formations that reminded me of the City of Rocks in Idaho, only limestone. Grazalema is another area that sticks out in my mind with it sweeping orange walls, and the rural setting. As we toured around the province we saw amazing crag after amazing crag, many of which weren't even in the "guia". I see why Sharma spends his time in Spain, I would.....if I could.

By Anna Bengts
Feb 27, 2010

To find topos of El Chorro, see 27crags.com/areas/el-chorro

By Betsy
Aug 31, 2010

My fiance and I are going to the Andalucia area for our honeymoon the first 2 wks of October... We want to CLIMB. My question is, is it easy to rent climbing gear? If not, what is the minimum we could bring? We are novice climbers at this point.

By Gabriel CW
From: Utah
Apr 17, 2012

I will be in Casares the month of June. My 5 year old boy is crazy about climbing so I am looking for info on climbing gyms, maybe in Estapona? And easy (5.5 and easier)top rope climbs near Casares. Boulder areas too? Thanks, Gabriel