The massive province of Andalucia runs down the south eastern coastline of spain and contains lots of great cragging.
The major areas are El Chorro, Loja, Archidona, Grazalema, Turon, El Cahorros and Villanueva del Rosario. The region also includes the high alpine area of the Sierra Nevada.
There are some good guides to the areas; the Rockfax El Chorro guide covers a lot of the most popular central crags, David Munilla's Andalucia guide covers more areas in less detail and I am trying to document the climbing areas around Malaga and Villanueva del Rosario.
The rock is largely limestone and there are lots of options that allow climbing pretty much year round - despite the region being quite far south.
The popular crags of El Chorro are often busy, but the majority of the crags are quite quiet.
The airports of Malaga, Granada and Seville are all good access points.
This is one of the best routes in the El Chorro area, and should be done by anyone climbing at the grade. It is a crack climb, but like limestone routes, you'll be using face holds as well. The crack can be wide, flaring and dirty in spots. It is definitely a trad route with a few old bolts along the way. It is also known to be a bit of a sandbag (or the shitty Rockfax guide is just wrong), and is said to go at about 5.11. P2 and P4 are given the grade of 6b+ while P1 gets 6a+ and P3 gets a...[more]Browse More Classics in International
Andalucia is a sport climbers paradise. Beautiful, varied rock with the amazing setting of southern Espana. One could spend months climbing at El Chorro and never repeat the same route. El Torcal de Antequera was a wild place, with formations that reminded me of the City of Rocks in Idaho, only limestone. Grazalema is another area that sticks out in my mind with it sweeping orange walls, and the rural setting. As we toured around the province we saw amazing crag after amazing crag, many of which weren't even in the "guia". I see why Sharma spends his time in Spain, I would.....if I could.
My fiance and I are going to the Andalucia area for our honeymoon the first 2 wks of October... We want to CLIMB. My question is, is it easy to rent climbing gear? If not, what is the minimum we could bring? We are novice climbers at this point.
I will be in Casares the month of June. My 5 year old boy is crazy about climbing so I am looking for info on climbing gyms, maybe in Estapona? And easy (5.5 and easier)top rope climbs near Casares. Boulder areas too? Thanks, Gabriel