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Main Cliff
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Unsorted Routes:

Ancient Way 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
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Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 22, 2006
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Leading Ancient Way

Description 

Ancient Way is an excellent easy route at the Main Cliff. It is located at the left edge of the ledges atop the Cave Slabs. Find Unconquerable Crack / Subline and go through a short cave to the left. Then boulder up a few moves to the ledge on the next flake over. Belay at the left end of this ledge. The route takes the left-facing dihedral / crack to the summit.


Protection 

Medium to large nuts / cams



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Ancient Way
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By Devin Krevetski
From: West Woodstock, VT
Oct 11, 2010

one of the first routes I led at Ragged, scared the bajeezubs outta me. I was unaccustomed to easy routes being so steep.

By M LaViolette Jr.
From: The Past
Oct 20, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

I heard CT had some hard grades. This would be an easy .6 in other places I've climbed. The first piece is a little weird as the crack flares inwards and outwards, other than that fun and well protected.

By Allan Nadel
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

I led this over the weekend, and I agree with both of the of the previous comments. I do most of my climbing at the Gunks, and I think this climb is definitely harder than Horseman 5.5. Maybe I was missing all the good stances, but I found it strenuous enough to place gear that I didn't want to hang out forever. Also, there is a bit of a scramble up to the base of the climb with one or two 5th class moves.

Having said that, if you're solid at 5.5 you'll love this climb. It does take a lot of gear, I used mainly big cams, the rock is solid and you can stem, jam, or use face holds. Next time I'm in CT I'd like to do it again in better style.

By Jim S
Jun 29, 2012

led this route today and loved every min of it. Def made me hesitate about my next move. A little flared in the beginning but great gear after. Great overall led and fun moves.

By Simon L
From: Hartford, CT
Oct 6, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

Nice fun route, just got to take your time looking for the next holds and maybe run your pro out a bit to the next bomber hold and placement rather than hanging on trying to place something.

By A.wilk
From: MA
Dec 6, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

All the other comments are spot on. The beginning is a little hard to protect but after that there is plenty of gear. Great climb with good stances to place pro and lots of fun moves in between.