Ancient Sea Friends 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Bolted by Kevin Capps, FFA Ben Williams |
| Season: | early spring/ late fall |
| Submitted By: | Kevin Capps on Jan 21, 2011 |
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here is a pic of me bolting it in the hot, hot, ho...
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Description Climb the easy warm up slab, do some stretches on the ledge, and then wedge yourself in the dihedrel and get ready to hang on for the next 20 feet. The crux is very balancy and you will know it when you come to it!
Location look for the giant dihedrel. just right of next time, send a card
Protection 6 bolts and 2 bolt anchor
| Comments on Ancient Sea Friends |
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By marcus floyd
From: columbia, mo
Feb 18, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b
CONDITION REPORT | Still a mixed climb for beginner trad climbers, I climbed again today as a cold warmup ascent. The route is a sketchy 5.11 crux,forced from a left lay back crimp, in the upper dihedral,then right hand to main upper edge. Move left to a roof pinch and then righ to undercling. Adjust feet and the hands so you can move right hand up to a bump hold. The top is now cleaned off so the big choss is not ready to blow. Clip off of the upper ax head shaped rock, very high to the right. Do not stop at the first ax! 5.11 Marcus |
By marcus floyd
From: columbia, mo
Dec 3, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b
| Old school 5.9 "below" the main roof, the upper crux is for sure a 5.11. As a 1990's Trad line: Too Wiered For Words was a bold lead for sure. Listed in the 1998 climbing guide book as a TR, this route was not reccommended for future trad ascents because of the lack of protection. Feel free to give the route a try via pure trad style or try to head up the flake to the right then out right of the dihedral to the upper left-facing crack. Goodluck!
This gem, now a bolted sport line, was a trad line that surely needed the bolts. At the same time, the top of this route is no less dicy than Providence Crack's trad finish! Good job Kevin. I also like the new name. No one knew it as Nice Stems.
| Sport, Providence Crack Area options
Submitted By: marcus floyd on Dec 3, 2011
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| A another Providence Access gem
Submitted By: marcus floyd on Dec 3, 2011
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By marcus floyd
From: columbia, mo
Feb 17, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b
| Rebolted and cleaned for safe travel, this route gives the best of both worlds. 5.9 or less is below the roof with protected chain lowering anchors at each clip through middle dihedral. The main roof expose the upper intermediate division of climbing by forsing the body position into an arete. Take the under cling to the main good face hold via a small small leftfacing crack. Next, press intothe roof and rest. Goodluck resting. Clip and head right with a highstep. adjust the left hand and reach right to a bump hold. Adjust left foot and bump right hand to an axe edge, finish hold. Finish rock surface fell with cleaning, so finish out right. Camp next to the river below. |
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