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The Cascades Wall
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Ancient Relics 
Coleman Direct 
Solar Ridge 
Who Haas Those Holds? 

Ancient Relics 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 216
Submitted By: rob bauer on Jun 7, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: AR goes toward the black roof to Phil's right.

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Description 

Phil Persson did the 1st pitch, not quite sure what it was. It is fun and has pro where you need it. 5.8+? We redirected to the anchors on Coleman, did Solar Ridge P2 and then made our own adventure. P1 was quite good!

Per Monty: P2 continues up and slightly right (path of least resistance) to a small stance near the base of some flaring finger cracks with a buttonhead halfway up. P2 climb the flaring fingers via some face holds passing an "ancient relic." Pull onto a sloping ledge, move left and pull a small roof (exciting), and finish on easier ground above.

We walked over to Tan Corridor and rap'd off a tree. If you just want to walk down, keep right and shoot for the top of the Tan' gully.


Location 

To the right of Coleman Direct, start at about the lowest point of the wall with 3 cracks below a black roof/pod. Phil started in the right crack and moved left as they petered out, but you might start a bit left?


Protection 

Standard rack? Medium cams and nuts. (Disclaimer: we didn't do P2.)



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By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Jun 8, 2013

P1 is definitely the money pitch on this climb, but the 2nd pitch is the spicy namesake. The best way to climb this route is to climb past the large, solar ledge on p1 and continue up and slightly right (path of least resistance) to a small stance near the base of some flaring finger cracks with a buttonhead halfway up. P2 climb the flaring fingers via some face holds passing an "ancient relic." Pull onto a sloping ledge, move left and pull a small roof (exciting), and finish on easier ground above.

Also, there is an easier walkoff to the right (northeast) from the top. Once off the dome, stay close to the cliff and keep your eye open for a couple of cairns that will sneak you through a bushy corridor right back to your packs. This is quicker and keeps you from having to walk all the way around the formation.

By Jeremy C
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 13, 2013

We did the first pitch of this route today, not knowing what it was. My partner led and set up an anchor with some gear. There didn't seem to be any anchor bolts for this one. There is a huge, relaxed ledge at the top, and it's pretty easy to rap down off of the anchors for Coleman Direct if you chose to just do the first pitch. We thought it felt around 5.6 or 7 and was pretty fun.