|Type:||Trad, 10 pitches, 1100', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||D. Coltrane, M. Hanna|
|Season:||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Submitted By:||Daniel Coltrane on Aug 30, 2012|
|Comments on Ancient Melodies||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Daniel Coltrane
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 25, 2014
Just finished three more pitches that avoid the 4th class gully start and go directly up the west slabs.
Pitch 1- From the ledge at the bottom of the west slabs head straight up to a bolt about thirty feet off the ground and continue up easy slabs for 55m. low 5th. 3 bolts and gear.
Pitch 2- Continue straight up through a right facing corner and some easy slabs with big ledges for about 55m to a ledge. 5.6 two bolts and gear
Pitch 3- head right and up across clean slabs until you gain a long low angle left facing corner that is a sweet cruiser lay back. At its end head up and right past a pin and cross a water streak till you come over a rib on the right and gain two large metolius rap rings. 50m 5.7 5 bolts.
From here a quick scramble across a gully to the original start gets you going on the money pitches. This is also the prime way to get back down.
Enjoy this now 10 pitch gem!
May 3, 2015
I climbed this route yesterday and I'm still buzzing from how amazing it was. The bolting was nothing short of phenomenal; in that every pitch was incredibly well protected, and every single clipping stance was completely relaxed.
My partner and I agreed that the pitch prior to the 'Boss Hogg' pitch (#3) was the money pitch. Super tech, and super fun.
The little bulge on the 'Boss Hogg' pitch has some loose rock near the undercling located 30ft above the belay, so be very wary of what you stand on or grab.
The 11- crux pitch was nonsensically hard once you reach the region near the 2nd/3rd bolt, and I ended up just pulling on gear to get through it. Bring your levitation skills if you plan on freeing it.
As far as gear goes, I could probably advocate leaving stoppers behind and bringing a single set of cams from fingers to fists (#0.3 - 3), and a mix of alpine draws and sport draws.
Overall, 4 stars, a fun day of climbing, and an experience so memorable that I'm actually stoked about returning to Darrington to reclimb this route in... the future!
By Nate Redon
From: Seattle, WA
May 14, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
We just climbed this route yesterday, it was sweet!
As previously noted, the "Boss Hogg" pitch has a lot of looseness. Watch out for bad rock under the first undercling 30ft up from the belay and some flakes above. The final lieback has large bits of moving rock in it and signs of recent rockfall, I'd recommend staying as far to the left and out of it as possible (use face holds).
You may want to bring a wrench for loose hangers, also, watch out for off-route bolts that pull you to the right on P4, stay left.
Everything else was great, be ready for some puzzling moves on the crux pitch. We figured it out after a couple falls.
We brought a single rack from 0.2 - 3 and would have been fine without the 3 but YMMV