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Ancient Light 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Bonnie Von Grebe, Christine Damiano, 2001. P2 Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns, 2005
Page Views: 1,398
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jul 9, 2002

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John Engelland on the crux headwall.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route begins on the far left side of the summit tier of Avalon. From the Wall of the Dead, follow a trail right and up to Avalon's summit tier. Traverse left heading downstream. Pass a short wall with several cracks (Wall of the Goddess) and continue into the woods on a trail right next to the rock.The route starts at a narrow spot on the trail, right next to a curvy 10-foot-high dead tree.

P1. Climb up a somewhat grungy face (moss, lichen), then make an exciting traverse left at a little roof onto an arete (crux). Continue up the arete, past a 2-bolt anchor on a pedestal, to a 2-bolt anchor on a big grassy ledge. (10a, 9 bolts, 80').

The climbing on the upper half of the pitch is quite good.

P2. Work up and right past 2 bolts and pull right around the Penis Envy Pillar. Climb the right side of the pillar to a roof. Lieback through the roof, then climb straight up to a 2-bolt ring anchor on a nice ledge (10c, 5 bolts & gear to 3", 80').

Protection 

P1: 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor at 70'.

If you're going to do the second pitch, continue past the first anchor (on a pedestal just below the grassy ledge) up to the grassy ledge and an anchor on the wall above it. This makes the pitch 80' long with 9 clips instead of 8.

P2: 5 bolts and gear up to 3".


Photos of Ancient Light Slideshow Add Photo
Sheri Kessler pulling around the Penis Envy Pillar...
Sheri Kessler pulling around the Penis Envy Pillar...
Mico Alejandro gliding up the pristine face of Anc...
Mico Alejandro gliding up the pristine face of Anc...
This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Av...
BETA PHOTO: This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Av...
Ancient Light, pitch 1.  The lower part of the rou...
BETA PHOTO: Ancient Light, pitch 1. The lower part of the rou...
Nickie Kelly at the horizontal crack on the steep ...
Nickie Kelly at the horizontal crack on the steep ...
Nickie Kelly on the airy arete on p1 of Ancient Li...
Nickie Kelly on the airy arete on p1 of Ancient Li...
Routes on the summit tower of Avalon.  Approach vi...
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the summit tower of Avalon. Approach vi...
Ancient Light, pitch 2.  Climb the face past two b...
BETA PHOTO: Ancient Light, pitch 2. Climb the face past two b...
This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Av...
BETA PHOTO: This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Av...

Comments on Ancient Light Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 3, 2005

The second pitch is interesting and varied. Climbing around the pillar and up to its top is quite different from the typical Avalon face climb. Laybacking the roof is straightforward, once you get in the proper position. The upper face was steep and sustained, with a 10b move at the 4th bolt and a 10d move at the fifth bolt. You can climb straight up past the fifth bolt with a long reach to a good pocket, or go left to a flared hand crack.

I placed a #.75 Camalot in the left side of the pillar after the second bolt, a #.5 Camalot and a #3 Camalot after the third bolt, and a yellow Alien after the fifth bolt.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 3, 2005

On the first pitch, the crux traverse left to the arete may be harder than 10a for shorter climbers. At 6'1", I was able to reach some good holds to pull myself across, but my shorter partner had a lot of trouble here. Rossiter's 10c rating may be more accurate for shorter climbers.

If you're going to do the second pitch, continue past the first anchor (on a pedestal just below the grassy ledge) up to the grassy ledge and an anchor on the wall above it. This makes the pitch 80' long with 9 clips instead of 8.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 19, 2007

Dirty down low and still plenty of moss on the route. 2nd half is good when you move left to the arete. This was a good link into Ancient Fright to Resurrection to summit Avalon. If you do this, go to the top anchor.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 19, 2008

With a few longer slings, doing it as one long pitch is the way to go... you'll want to skip some bolts in easy territory & both inetmediate anchors to keep the drag down, but it's not hard where this is beneficial.
By Jeff Chrisler
From: Boulder, CO
May 27, 2012

This is a highly underrated climb and needs to get some more traffic on it! Make the venture up and out of the usual Avalon crowds to find this hidden gem. The 1st pitch is probably far easier than 10c, but perhaps the necessity to avoid wet moss and vegetation along with a slightly awkward but very cool, airy traverse makes it a 10. Awesomely fun, and well done finding this line to the original bolters!
By prod.
From: Boulder, Co
Sep 16, 2012

Only climbed the first pitch but liked it. It is rated 10c in D'Antonio's book but felt more like 10a. Nice line that needs some cleaning.