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 ADVANCED
Crack Land
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ancient Fright S 
Ancient Light T,S 
Ancient Sight T 
Art Of War, The S 
Blade T 
Crack Love T 
Crack Love II T 
Crack Love III T 
Enemy Within, The T 
Ghost Ship T 
Mystery Ship S 
Mystery Tour T 
Resurrection T 
Ship of Fools T 
Thus Us T 
War Horse T,S 

Ancient Fright 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns (Pebby), 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 994
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Jan 1, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Ancient Fright. From the top of Ancient Light, tr...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

ANCIENT FRIGHT is located on the remote NE face of the Third Tier of Avalon, well around the corner from the Wall of the Goddess. The route ascends a steep wall some 30 feet left from the top of Ancient Light. Approach via Ancient Light or climb in from the left (class 4).

Climb steep and very well-formed rock past 5 bolts. The higher you go, the harder it gets. Lower off, 70 feet.

Resurrection continues from the top of this route to the magnificent summit of Avalon (5.9), but you need gear up to 3 inches, q.v.


Protection 

Bring only QDs. New Fixe stainless steel all the way. 5 bolts to a 2-ring anchor. Lower off 70 feet.



Photos of Ancient Fright Slideshow Add Photo
This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Avalon, showing the new route WAR HORSE.
BETA PHOTO: This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Av...
Nickie Kelly starting the crux sequence at the fourth bolt.
Nickie Kelly starting the crux sequence at the fou...
Routes on Crack Land, part of Avalon.  Approach via the first pitch of Ancient Light, or by a 4th-class scramble from the left. <br /> <br />Note: the rappel tree below Resurrection shown in the photo no longer exists.  A new 2-bolt anchor has been installed slightly above this point.
BETA PHOTO: Routes on Crack Land, part of Avalon. Approach vi...
Nickie Kelly stretching to unclip the last bolt on Ancient Fright.
Nickie Kelly stretching to unclip the last bolt on...
At the third bolt.
At the third bolt.
Comments on Ancient Fright Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 30, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A steep and sustained pitch; hard climbing from the third to the fifth bolts with minimal stances. The crux is at the fourth bolt. We continued up to the tree at the start of Resurrection instead of lowering from the 2-bolt anchor.

We approached via Ancient Light, a good pitch with excellent airy climbing on the upper arete.

By Richard Rossiter
Oct 5, 2005

The tree above the finish to Ancient Fright is gone. A gigantic boulder tipped over and shattered the tree, but did not quite break it off. Thus the boulder teetered precariously against the tree, 200 feet above the approach gully.

I came up with a tree surgeon's saw on a 10-foot fibre glass pole and cut the tree until it snapped under the weight of the boulder. This was a hairy opperation as I had to get down even with the base of the tree to wield the saw. This boulder was literally the size of a VW bug, but of solid granite. It is difficult to even speculate how much it weighed. When the boulder fell, it ripped a path through the forest below about 10 feet wide and 200 meters long...most of the way to Boulder Creek.

I felt I had to fell the tree under controlled circumstances rather than when the tree finally gave way on its own. In any case, you can no longer belay or rappel from this tree.

FYI: I returned during the summer of 2006 and placed a 2-bolt ringe anchor on the east wall of the recess beneath Resurrection (in place of the fallen tree). Richard Rossiter

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 19, 2007

A good pitch and solid for the grade. Balance on sidepulls to make your way through the crux. There's a blue Alien placement to supplement the bolts. No need for gear above the anchor if you are making your way to resurrection.

By prod.
From: Boulder, Co
Sep 16, 2012

Bob D'Antonio's book called this 10b. I found it pretty hard by Boulder Canyon standards. I also placed a yellow Mastercam going from 3rd to 4th bolt.

Prod.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This route deserves its 10c rating and not the 10b rating it is given in the D'Antonio book. It is sustained at the 10c grade on small sidepull holds.