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Ancient Art

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Stolen Chimney T 

Ancient Art 


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Location: 38.72161, -109.30434 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on May 12, 2002
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Summit of Ancient Art

Description 

This is definitely the most popular tower in the Fishers, and Stolen Chimney on the corkscrew summit is one of the most popular routes in the desert. Rarely enough for the serious and scary Fishers, Stolen Chimney is a cruise that protects very well.

Ancient Art is a complicated formation with several major summits. The corkscrew summit is the one reached 99% of the time, but the others appear to be good outings as well. This is a great tower for the moderately experienced trad climber looking to experience what the Fisher Towers have to offer.


Getting There 

Ancient Art is the multi-summited tower below the Kingfisher. Walk along the good trail from the parking lot for about a mile until just past the tower. Turn left onto a very good climber's trail that heads up the gully between Ancient Art and Cottontail Tower. The trail is excellent all the way to the base of the tower-look sharp for cairns.


1 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ancient Art:
Stolen Chimney   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   
Browse More Classics in Ancient Art

Featured Route For Ancient Art
Classic summit shot!

Stolen Chimney 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  UT : Moab Area : ... : Ancient Art
This is by far the most popular route in the Fisher Towers, and a moderate classic. The route goes at 5.9 A0 if yarding on bolts, or can be free climbed at well protected 5.10.P1. Climb easy 5.4 broken rock to a huge ledge. If you are free climbing the route, belay here to avoid rope drag. Climb a 4 bolt ladder to a big belay ledge at the base of a chimney. 5.10, 120 feet.P2. Climb a really fun and well protected 5.8 mud chimney for about 90 feet to a belay on the right.P3...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Ancient Art Slideshow Add Photo
Mario descending the not so easy but quick way from the corkscrew summit, 11/25/07
Mario descending the not so easy but quick way fro...
Oil painting of my nephew Matt on Ancient Art
Oil painting of my nephew Matt on Ancient Art
Ancient Art at Sunset
Ancient Art at Sunset
Ancient Art's four summits.
Ancient Art's four summits.
The summit shot.  My version of Tree Pose.
The summit shot. My version of Tree Pose.
The 'Karate Kid' classic by: The Liggin. Only on Ancient Art...
The 'Karate Kid' classic by: The Liggin. Only on A...
oooops.
BETA PHOTO: oooops.
Fisher Towers December 2003
BETA PHOTO: Fisher Towers December 2003
Ancient Art on a nice March morning. Photo by Bill Rusk.
Ancient Art on a nice March morning. Photo by Bill...
This is Karen conquering the 'diving board.' Looks suspicious to me...
This is Karen conquering the 'diving board.' Looks...
Stiched image of Jim climbing the summit of Ancient Art
Stiched image of Jim climbing the summit of Ancien...
Playing chess on the Sidewalk...
Playing chess on the Sidewalk...
An incredible view while climbing the corkscrew
An incredible view while climbing the corkscrew
Full Alpine conditions on the final pitch of Ancient Art
Full Alpine conditions on the final pitch of Ancie...
Ancient Art
Ancient Art
Full aerial view on the summit section of Ancient Art.
Full aerial view on the summit section of Ancient ...
Top looking down
BETA PHOTO: Top looking down
Ancient Art near sunset
Ancient Art near sunset
Myke Komarnitsky being foolish.
Myke Komarnitsky being foolish.
Ancient Star Dryvin bolt on the final pitch
Ancient Star Dryvin bolt on the final pitch
Having Fun on Fisher Tower
Having Fun on Fisher Tower
Heidi topping out the chimney pitch <br />
Heidi topping out the chimney pitch
Another oil painting, this time of my son Ethan and my nephew Matt.
Another oil painting, this time of my son Ethan an...
Diving board mantle
Diving board mantle
looking down from the top!
looking down from the top!
the chimney
BETA PHOTO: the chimney
This is the guy Chad and I hooked up with at the Pagen Mountian shop (rt. side).  Photo Chad, My climbing partner. <br />This is a must do.
This is the guy Chad and I hooked up with at the P...
Approaching Ancient Art
Approaching Ancient Art
I thought this guy was trying to land on one of the summits, but he gracefully turned at the last second and floated to the parking lot.
I thought this guy was trying to land on one of th...
Ancient Art from summit of Cottontail Tower.  March 2012.
BETA PHOTO: Ancient Art from summit of Cottontail Tower. Marc...
Top of first pitch.  Castleton is on the right.
Top of first pitch. Castleton is on the right.
The one footer
The one footer
Ancient Art
Ancient Art
Leading up the corkscrew was a lot easier that walking the 2' plank and jumping up onto the diving board...
Leading up the corkscrew was a lot easier that wal...
Rappeling down the "mud chimney"
Rappeling down the "mud chimney"
Looking down from the summit
Looking down from the summit
Karate Kid... big pole :)
Karate Kid... big pole :)
At the diving board on Ancient Art. <a href='http://rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2012/12/moab-utah-fisher-towers-ancient-art_8.html' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2012/12/moab-utah-fisher-towers-ancie>>></a>
At the diving board on Ancient Art. rjohnas...
The most fun I've had in 25 feet...
The most fun I've had in 25 feet...
ancient art
ancient art
Final pitch of ancient art
Final pitch of ancient art
Ancient Art formation during the approach hike with the obvious Stolen Chimney cutting towards the skyline below the Corkscrew summit on the left. March 19, 2011
Ancient Art formation during the approach hike wit...
Walking the sidewalk.
Walking the sidewalk.
Loking up the Colorado from Acient Art's summit.
Loking up the Colorado from Acient Art's summit.
Double geetar shredding on the summit!! <br /> <br />The story: <a href='http://shredallfeartour.blogspot.com/2013/11/moab-model-madness.html' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >shredallfeartour.blogspot.com/2013/11/moab-model-madness.htm>>></a>
Double geetar shredding on the summit!!

The story...
Dustin rappeling down Ancient Art with the Castleton group in the background.
Dustin rappeling down Ancient Art with the Castlet...
Walking the plank
Walking the plank
BASE
BASE
About to start up the corkscrew
About to start up the corkscrew
What a great summit!
What a great summit!
summit
summit
Comments on Ancient Art Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 26, 2014
By Lon Black
Oct 4, 2004

The three star rating is for the exposure rather than the rock quality. Yeah it isn't solid sandstone during the lower 2/3 of the climb, but the exposure is something you have to experience. The lower face before the chimney has four clips and goes around 10+. I think the book says the chimney goes at a 5.9. Technically, it was a little easier than 5.9, but I guess the dirt and sandy nature of this pitch increases the difficulty a bit. We soloed up the first part of the climb and then linked the 10+ face section and the chimney section into one longer pitch. (50M was fine). The face (protected by three clips) after the chimney just before reaching the bolts on the diving board/catwalk goes at 10 something also. Now you are ready to walk across (or scoot your bum across) to the camel's face. You can do the belly flop onto the top of the camel's face or traverse down and left to move up the corkscrew section. Then move up and right to attain the exposed summit. Double 60M rap from the ledge above the chimney pitch allows you to barely reach the ground. We rapped with a skinny 50M and a thick 60M which gets you to a spot where you then have to do two moves up a little slot and then two moves down on the other side in order to terra firma.

By madmax
Aug 30, 2005

Jimmy Dunn is the King of this Tower. He climbs it (up and down) without a rope! As far as I know, however, the tower still awaits a naked free solo by a cancer survivor ...

By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Jun 20, 2007

Hands down, not only one of the best desert base jumps but one of the best base jumps period!

By steve santora
Oct 4, 2007

Great climb. Do NOT miss the corkscrew pitch. Its not that hard 5-7/8 As Eddy Murphy says in "Bowfinger" "Keep it Together, Keep it Together"
PS Left my camera in the parking lot with some great pic's if found please call. I'm in the phone book SLC. Cheers and have a Great Climb

By steve santora
Oct 10, 2007

Found my camera Thanks.

By EB
From: Winona
Feb 21, 2008

Can ancient art be rapped with a single 70m rope?

By Alex Knecht
From: White PLains
Jul 28, 2010

Climbed this in April (sorry I'm a little late), but the group behind us stripped the 2nd bolt on the bolt ladder. This would make those moves tough to aid. Please post up if it has been replaced, but this is beta, climbers should take with them.

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Jul 28, 2010

Excuse me? Who stripped the bolt on the bolt ladder? And did they say why?

By Kevin Sainio
From: Durango, CO
Oct 12, 2010

Yup, some douchebag has removed two of the bolts on this route. The second bolt on the first bolt ladder is gone, which means you must make mandatory 5.10 moves in order to advance. This bolt really should be replaced because of the danger of decking on the ledge if you fall. Also, the first bolt on the second bolt ladder is missing as well making for a slightly more run out third pitch.

By al grahn
Oct 13, 2010

Don't assume "douchebag".I did the route last Fri and ran into a guy in the parking lot on Sat who said he pulled a bolt out with his fingers a couple weeks ago. Seems to me better gone than finger loose.

By Kevin Sainio
From: Durango, CO
Oct 13, 2010

As Alex says, "the group behind us stripped the 2nd bolt". Removing a bad bolt is one thing, removing two perfectly good bolts in solid rock is another, especially when every guidebook printed says the route goes at 5.9, C0. By the way, we found one bolt at the base, it was in great shape, the only thing missing was the hanger.

By L. Hamilton
Oct 16, 2010

That second bolt was still missing as of 10/11/2010, but its absence did not slow down the traffic. Competent leaders just free climbed past it.

By Tom Grummon
From: Golden, CO
Oct 20, 2010

The missing bolt on the first pitch is unfortunate because as previously mention it helps prevent a ledge fall. And although the one on the third pitch was not really necessary if shit hit the fan before you clip the now first bolt it would be very bad news. I climbed it this summer and the bolts seemed bomber then. When I climbed it yesterday the holes looked like they were fine.

Edit: this is still a well protected climb.

By Ryan A. Ray
From: Keller, TX
Oct 23, 2010

No, im pretty sure that both of the bolts were intentionally removed. Both still had the collar and wedge still in the hole and they were tight. They were both indeed 5 piece rawls. If they had pulled then the colar and wedge would have been gone too. They had to be loosened in order to come out like that. They should have just been retightened instead of removed.

Fortunately, someone can easilly go back and should be able to place a new bolt back in the same hole. You might even be able to just place a new hanger and bolt stud back in using the same old wedge and collar(which is pretty new to begin with). There should be no need to redrill a new hole. Or you can take a new bolt and screw into the current wedge...tap it back in the hole, use some pliers to pull out the collar, then screw the bolt back in the wedge and pull the wedge out of the hole. Then just drill the hole a little deeper and use a new longer bolt. I would have done this when i was there this past week, but did not have my drill with me. Fortunately I personally did not feel that the bolts were necessary. I liked the way it forced you to free climb. Getting to the first bolt on the second bolt ladder is no harder than 5.5

On another note, did anyone notice that the large block on pitch 3 that you used to be there has fallen over and is now laying on the boulder between the large belay ledge. You used to step up on the boulder, then mantle up on top of the block in order to reach the fist bolt on that pitch. I wonder if that was knocked over intentionally, or by natural causes?

By Stan Jones
From: Benbrook, TX
Dec 3, 2011

For posterity - Ancient Art is the centerpiece of a CitiBank commercial that has been airing in Nov-Dec 2011.

By Topher M.
From: moab, ut
Mar 23, 2012

Can be climbed safely with a single set of Camalots #0.5 to #3 (double #1 optional, some quick draws, and four to six long (24") slings. "Yes" the first bolt on the last bolt ladder is still missing! The climbing is exposed but only 5.5ish to the next bolt. Placing a cam behind the flake below is a BAD idea! That flake is barely attached. As unique as this climb is, BEWARE! It seems to be a gumbi magnet. You may have to wait awhile and watch a total cluster above you!

By Ryan A. Ray
From: Keller, TX
Apr 1, 2012

too bad. I remember the day when you could climb this and see no one else. Now the parking lot has become a cluster of cars. Alot has changed over the past few years.

By Hayley Ashburn
Apr 18, 2012

Des anyone know what the speed record on this tower is? Has one been recorded? Thanks for the beta

By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 20, 2012

Did this on a packed day (18 people on it) ended up being quite the cluster F. If it's busy find something else to climb for the day, it's a short route with ok climbing. The summit is very cool but, as a climb I'd give it 1 star.

Place your gear carefully as the rock is iffy most of the way up.

One other note: If it's windy, the top pitch can be pretty scary.

By Tim Fry
From: Charlotte NC
Nov 27, 2012

I just wanted to add that this climb and rappel is possible with a SINGLE 60m rope. I couldn't find that info anywhere online, but my partner and I did it yesterday and you end up with about 3' to spare on each of the longer rappels.

By Goat
From: Boulder
Mar 31, 2013

I just wanted to add that to rap this route with a single sixty would be stupid and inconsiderate of the parties below you.

By nadeleets
Apr 21, 2013

Little homemade video of us climbing this thing for the first time. No helicopter shots like the Citi commercial, though.

By PanCakeFace
Nov 12, 2013

Summit shred session

By Brian Carter
Apr 23, 2014

Any guides want to take an exchange student from Germany up Corkscrew the last week of May for 200? I told her about my climb last September, and she wants to go up but cannot afford the official package. It could be Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday, so if you have a free day let me know. CarterMedia AT Hot mail Dot Com.

The climb we did in September, by the way, was awesome. It rained the night before (a lot) which was a pro and a con. Pro, because there was NOBODY waiting in the staging area, and a con because the rocks were still a little wet, and there was mud in the upper shelf, and a puddle or two in the rocks, including on the knob of corkscrew.

Climbing tip:

The second coolest photo you can take is of the front cliff when you are coming down. If you have anyone on the ground, tell them to take one (like attached) when you are coming down. It shows the huge size of the cliff there.

Coming down from corkscrew...
Coming down from corkscrew...

By BigNobody
From: all over, mostly Utah
Apr 23, 2014

Better climbing tip:

Don't climb sandstone when it's wet jackass.

By Joe Forrester
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Apr 24, 2014

^^^Second this one. Climbing on Cutler the morning after a heavy rain is pretty dangerous. If there is enough water that it is pooling, probably wise to wait for the rock to dry. Be smart and don't turn into a statistic that will change access for the worse.

By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Apr 26, 2014

Climbing wet sandstone is a beating offense. What a jerk.