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A short, popular TR with an interesting flare section. This route sees a lot of traffic, probably due to the ease of setting it up as a Top-rope. Climb a slabby section following edges & thin crack to a good stance below the obvious flaring pod. The crux sequence up & through the pod can be tough to figure out at first, but after figuring out the moves, this is easy for 5.9 and over quickly. After the pod a few more easy moves take you to the anchor.
On the far left side or Red Wall - just above the rescue litter - it's the obvious flare about 20' left of classic crack. To set a TR, follow the trail to the left from the base of the climb, and then back around to the right to reach the ledge by scrambling over & behind a boulder.
Gear placements on lead are sparse and marginal, so not really recommended to lead this on your first time.
nice shot of Hannah on the flare of Anastasia.
|By another Chad|
Apr 16, 2012
Hemp, where are these gear placements? I've scrutinized this line and all I see is a terrible placement for a small wire near the bottom of the flare. Might be able to slam a pin in somewhere. I'd call this thing x rated as a lead.
Apr 20, 2012
if I remember correctly, there's a decent nut at the left side of the narrow rail (near the climber's left heel in the picture), and a sketchy orange TCU in the back of the flare.
Definitely best to just TR.