Anasazi V7-8
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| Type: | Boulder, 8 feet |
| Consensus: | V7-8 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | BDalhaus on Mar 17, 2008 |
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Description A one-move dyno problem on the Balance Boulder. Start with a sidepull crimp for your right hand and a slopey crimp seam for your left. Get your right foot on a chip practically underneath the boulder and dyno (crux) to a horn at the lip. Top it out.
Keeping the right foot on can be tricky for some. At one point I wound up on my back underneath the boulder.
Location Atop the hill, the Balance Boulder is hard to miss. When walking towards it from the other boulders, this problem is on the left side. The horn at the lip is easy to find. Once on top, head left and jump off.
Protection Pad
By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Mar 5, 2010
| It can also be done in more than one move by making use of the sidepull/crimp underneath the jug first, holding a hard barndoor, then moving to the jug. I guess this beta is only suggested if you are not as long and it is harder to reach the jug in one move. It worked for me. Keeping the feet on is still tricky however. But this problem is not the best and the right hand sidepull starting hold ruined my fingers. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 4, 2013
| and i did it yet a different way... sit start, left hand gastone (where bryce had his right), right hand crimp... high right foot, 2 moves to the top... V7ish this way i thought... not a great problem any way you do it... |
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