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Anartichoke 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Anderson, Wright, 1993
Page Views: 702
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Feb 20, 2002
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An unknown climber on the arete of Anartichoke.
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a fun line with a bouldery, technical start, and a sustained, pumpy finish, split by moderate climbing and a big ledge.

Stick clip the first bolt, then make easy moves to gain the prow. Work up along the thin crack, to a rattly block in the pod. Make a big move to a slopey ledge and mantle. Cruise up tiered ledges to reach the looming arete. Technical reaches and balancey high-steps work up the high quality arete to the anchor. For full value, avoid stemming to either corner adjacent to the arete.


Protection 

Ten draws and a rope. Stick clip recommended for B1. Alternatibely, a #0 TCU or equivalent nut slots perfectly in the thin crack that marks the start of the boulder problem.


Location 

Just right of Silver Bullet is a blunt prow with a mini-dihedral/flare/pod feature ~15 feet up. Anartichoke climbs the prow via bolts, then tacks the recessed arete above.



Photos of Anartichoke Slideshow Add Photo
Nearing the top out on "Anartichoke".
Nearing the top out on "Anartichoke".
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By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jul 14, 2008

Ditto Whole Lotta Drunk, there are many routes I have lost track of over the years, but there are a few that I distinctly remember naming & wouldn't have named had I not been on the FA. There are somewhere between 50 and 100 routes in CCC, Table and a few other areas that my name wasn't associated with the FA though, despite drilling, cleaning or sending, so it may be hard to totally reconstruct the somewhat irrelevant FA info.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jul 15, 2008

FA - TA (+RW) Feb. 1993.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 16, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

On this route, I identified the line, placed the bolts, and led it first. Nonetheless, I certainly did not do it alone, nor any other climb for that matter. As we try to sort out accurate FA data for Mark Rolofoson's forthcoming guide to NTM, the FA data are important since this is something Mark has tried to be particularly fastidious about in all of his guides.

This brings up an important point of general significance. We commonly see FA reports that cite only a single climber, and unless the route was done solo this cannot be much of a reflection of the route's origin. I know that TA is right on in noting that he has not been cited on some climbs in the front range where this would be appropriate. Many of the ascents that Alan Nelson and I did together likewise show only a single FA climber. We should get this right. While a partner in a new ascent may not get the first red point, they may very well have contributed significantly and materially to the route's creation and can provide explicit verification as to the route's genesis. Furthermore, identifying the line, cleaning it, bolting it if that occurs, sorting out cruxes, belaying a partner, leading the route, supplying the gear, etc, etc, etc are all parts of the ascent in which the partner may be involved, and without these contributions the line would not exist. I know that I have been guilty of not always citing a key partner in a FA, an oversight mistake I won't make again. Perhaps it would be appropriate to always require more complete FA information when new routes do get posted.

By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jul 16, 2008

It sounds like Tod and Richard need to sit down with Mark and a route map, have a couple of beers, and swap a few "facts".