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Anarchy Rules 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1990
Page Views: 3,406
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001
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Sam stickin' the crux.

Description 

This is a good, hard route. The moves are sustained and non-positive. Once you start moving, keep climbing and it will eventually get better (at the anchors!!!). Overall, a good challenge.


Protection 

5 bolts/ 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Anarchy Rules Slideshow Add Photo
Just a clip and a mantle and should be good.
Just a clip and a mantle and should be good.
Sam finishing the last mantle, couldn't tell you what's going on but a nice biner to the face is always nice.
Sam finishing the last mantle, couldn't tell you w...
Mid-route on Anarchy Rules.
Mid-route on Anarchy Rules.
Comments on Anarchy Rules Add Comment
Show which comments
By MARSHALL BRITTLE
Sep 25, 2001

I DISAGREE WITH NATE THAT THE HOLDS ARE NON-POSITIVE, TAKE A BRUSH TO THEM, JUST FIND THE BITE, ITS THERE.

By Anonymous Coward
May 25, 2002

Sweet powerful crimps, jugs, and slopers. You've got to believe. Go with the flow and it weighs in around .11d.

By jonah
Jun 1, 2003

I agree this feels about 11d if you are insecure and downrating climbs makes you feel better about yourself.

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 26, 2005
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

This route is a good warm-up for Anarchitect. If it's 11d, then The Contest (Eldo) is 5.9. The AC posts need to go. Make everyone sign their names to shwag comments like that.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Apr 9, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

I've never had soo much fun on such a short route. Good crimps and mild slopers on a steep face with great movement.... Get ON It.

By Mr. Nick
Jul 2, 2011

SMOKE IT! Awesome route. I just get so bummed every time I'm on it because it ends.
Is it really 12b though...? hard 12a maybe? Eh, Either way, love the route.

By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Jan 17, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

11d, I call BS. The useless anonymous coward strikes again for the downgrade. Even in ELDO!!! this route would be 12-, in Boulder Canyon 12d. in the Gunks 9+, Red River Gorge 12c. Downgraders be damned!!!

By Luke Childers
Aug 28, 2013

Hey now I cut my teeth in the Gunks for 15 years! This things is a 5.8- out there!! Lol