Anarchy in the UK 5.12b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Kurt Smith, 1990 |
| Submitted By: | Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Photo by Steve Z.
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Description Two tricky cruxes, one is very thin and balancy while the other is powerful and bouldery. A good route but the second clip can be intimidating.
Protection 3 bolts, 2 coldshuts anchors. Difficult to clip the second bolt.
| Comments on Anarchy in the UK |
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By Anonymous Coward Jul 12, 2001
| Also a little sketchy going for the anchor. Look for holds behind the lip before you commit to pulling up slack. It looks like you could just about hit the deck if you fell there. |
By Nate Weitzel Sep 22, 2001
| I would say this this route rates in very close to its neighbor, Anarchy Rules. It definitely has some spook to it. Having never climbing it with the above mentioned fin I don't know how it used to feel but I would still stick with the 12b rating. |
By Mark Eller Nov 9, 2001
| My favorite route on this end of the cliff -- technical and surprisingly pumpy for such a short climb. A little intimidating at the top, but if you find the good holds right of the anchors you'll be fine. Doesn't this grade (and its neighbor's) seem a touch light when to compared to Anarchitect? Maybe it's my style (I love crimps, hate dynos and slopers) but this feels like 12a, while Anarchitect seems solid for 12d. |
By Nate Weitzel Nov 10, 2001
| Anarchitect is solid 12+, i agree. This route is either 12a/b or lets just call it 12-. |
By Chris O'Connor From: bouldertown, co May 29, 2007 rating: 5.12b
| Is this route #4 in the route Photo? |
By Rich Aschert Nov 11, 2007
| This used to be one of my favorite routes on this crag, but since someone took it upon themselves to add two additional bolts; it's just another clip-up. |
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