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 ADVANCED
East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 
Alligator Soup S 
Anarchy S 
Antline T 
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 
Big Sky S 
Binary  T,S 
Bob's Buttress Crack T 
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 
Death of a Dinosaur  S 
Diesel and Dust S 
End of an Era S 
End to End S 
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 
Inner Sanctum T,TR 
New Era T 
New Generation T,S 
Ormes' Chimney T 
Sandy Beaches T 
Skyline Pig S 

Anarchy 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ric & Cindy Geiman, 1994
Page Views: 799
Submitted By: matt bruton on Oct 19, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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1st crux.

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  • Description 

    This ascends a great thin face left through the black band crux to good edges. Traverse back right, .12a, and straight to the anchors.

    "One of the Gardens most difficult routes." -Ric Geiman

    Location 

    This lies between Skline Pig and Beat Me Up Scotty.

    Protection 

    7-8 bolts.


    Photos of Anarchy Slideshow Add Photo
    Entering the 1st crux.
    Entering the 1st crux.

    Comments on Anarchy Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By ricgeiman
    Jan 19, 2013

    Route name confusion is a result of a couple of old guidebooks that got the names wrong. This one is Anarchy. FA in 1994. Felt like mid-12 to me back in the day.
    By Jordan Hirro
    From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
    Apr 15, 2014

    This was the last route on all of Kindergarten that I had to do, and I found it to be very very good! I'm kind of sad I put it off so long! The crux is undoubtedly through the black band (at bolt 3) and slowly eases up for a tad then one more crux hits as your feet deteriorate (literally crumble...). A must do do for the grade and definitely one of the harder climbs in the Garden. I might give it 12b/c. Still hard and fun on great(ish) rock (Garden Standards). Thanks, Ric, for the climb!
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