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Middle Spire
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Anal Sex 
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Anal Sex 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c X

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bill Serniuk, free solo.
Page Views: 1,246
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 6, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Tiptoeing up the upper tier face as an alternate f...

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Description 

Starts from a triangular rock, against the base.
Left of "Regular Route".
Climb straight up the face, through a tunnel.
A fun, easy solo.
The description in the Supertopo Tahoe Guide is incorrect.


Protection 

none.



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How to capture the right perspective?  Not quite as steep as it appears, but not as slabby as a right-rotation would make it appear either.
BETA PHOTO: How to capture the right perspective? Not quite a...
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By Steve R.
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 2, 2009

Don't remember anything on this route qualifying it for an "X" rating. Solid liebacking traverse with decent pro then up through tunnel.

By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

What liebacking. You're on another route dude. This goes straight up an unprotected face.
I think 70' or whatever it is, with no pro would be considered X.

By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Jun 22, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a X

The lieback is Rain Song I believe, about 5.7/5.8 and it goes straight up the juggy konobs about 20-25' up the lieback, with some decent knob tie-offs. Anal Sex goes straight up the face through the tight tunnel/batwings/flakeish thing past some crimps and a knob mantel, def an X route. Felt more like 5.9 on lead to me, but then I am far from a soloist.