Anacram 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Charles Cole, Gib Lewis & Rich Smith, 1981 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Dec 14, 2002 |
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"Anacram". Photo by Blitzo.
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Description Start about 20' left of Cakewalk (5.8) by climbing past a solitary bolt into an arching, left-facing corner. Higher, steep and enjoyable moves lead past another bolt into a thin crack which leads to the top. A great route which should not be missed if in the area, this climb will leave a favorable impression on you. Three stars out of five.
Protection 2 bolts (3/8"), pro to 2.5"
BETA PHOTO: Anacram. Photo by Blitzo.
| Tony Bubb leads 'Anacram (10c)' at the Freeway Wal...
| Caughtinside tossing out a green alien, moments be...
| A view from below of the thin steepness. Not much...
| SO scenic yo
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By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Jan 7, 2003 rating: 5.10c
| After quite a tricky but well protected crux the upper crack has a way big feel to it. Position, exposure, varied technique. First time's a charm. |
By Randy Jan 28, 2003
| An excellent climb; the rock has cleaned up well. Challenging for the grade; I would call it more 5.10c/d.
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By Nick Wilder Site Landlord From: The Bubble Nov 13, 2005
| One of my new favorites. Great variety, interesting moves. |
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Bend, OR Nov 14, 2005 rating: 5.10c
| Good route. Two cruxes. First crux is well protected but harder at the second bolt. The second crux is the "mental" one.Towards the top of the crack, I fiddled for 15 minutes trying to get some gear higher than knee level to protect a tough move. Eventually I found a marginal RP in a flare - not the best piece but good enough to bust the move. Like the other person indicated, this climb leaves an impression on you. |
By tony grice Nov 13, 2006 rating: 5.10c
| Overlooked classic! Bring your captain crush hand for the crux lay back. |
By Tommy G. From: Irvine, California Jun 17, 2011
| Jumped on this climb on a whim on the way back to the car... wowza. I thought I was gonna take a toss somewhere past the bolt for sure (had to charge pretty far past it to get a stance and gear- pumped!). Really, really good route. As noted, a tad hard at the grade. Be mindful of a hollow flake down low. |
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