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The premiere pitch at Siurana, and probably among the very best sport climbs in the world. This stellar route climbs a beautiful orange & black streak of amazing sinker pockets & is an absolute must-do for anyone capable of the grade.
Scramble up to the exposed ledge. There is a manky belay bolt here, but it makes a lot more sense to leave the belayer on the ground. Blast up the 105 degree orange panel, making huge moves between ergonomic pockets. The holds dwindle towards the looming black bulge. Catch your breath at a mediocre crimp, then tackle the dark crux bulge. Move left from the big pocket, traverse the rail, and execute an intimidating rock-over to establish on the headwall. Continue left to a good rest, then weave up the unparalleled black headwall on magnificent pockets.
Apparently there is a kneebar in the crux that drops the grade to 7c+
On the central, impressive wall of Campi, immediately right of "Mr. Checki", climbing an orange streak to a black bulge with a sickle-shaped rail just over the lip of the bulge.
Bolts to 2 BA. Stick clip recommended.
Contemplating the stellar headwall of "Anabolica".
Oct 16, 2011
if you go left to the rest, you are out of the route and you are not doing anabolica. We de locals know that, a lot of people go to the left climbing 7c+ just for fun we call it anabolinga 7c+.