An Uncertain Violence
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This may be thee most aptly named route at the Forks! This line, while striking from the base, ends up dishing out more than it's fair share of chossy sections both at the bottom and top. It would be a serious lead with very real fall potential simply from corroded rock which in sections crumbles away at the touch. However, the actual splitter section of this line produces an all out tips encounter on a steep and exposed section of the Gold Wall, and is actually quite good climbing with face moves intermingled with burly finger jamming.
Could get quite a bit better with more TR traffic=Cleaner.
Located just to the right of Goldfinger, a hanging garden of moss and choss leads to the obvious thin splitter.
TCUs to 1", medium/small wires.
From: Flagstaff AZ
Sep 5, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
I agree that the bottom and the top of this route are pretty chossy, but the meat of the route is a great finger crack. I lead this climb circa 1998 with Rodman.