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The Grim Reaper
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An Icy Breath T 

An Icy Breath 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C2 X

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 220', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C2 X [details]
FA: Sam Lightner Jr, June 26, 2008
New Route: Yes
Season: faces northwest and then southwest
Page Views: 392
Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Jun 26, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: The goods

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1 = Climb up the easiest line in the Dewey Bridge layer. There is no gear on this pitch and it is very loose. I thought it was about 5.7... though if you had bolts in front of you it might be easier. Watch out for the huge blocks up. There is a good half inch bolt next to a 3/4 inch crack to build an anchor from on the ledge.
60 feet.
Pitch 2 = Go up the obvious crack, clipping two fixed pieces at the start to reach the "A"frame. This is actually C1 plugging, but I gave it the "C2" cus if the flake shifts you are gonna get an entrada enema. Once through the crux coninue on wider pieces, mostly large hands. This would be good free climbing as the pitch is very solid (above the crux). There is the obligatory wide stuff in the middle and at the end. A good anchor exists at the saddle. 110 feet.
Pitch 3 = free climb on very rotten rock to a half inch bolt, then aid/free the remaining 20 feet to the summit on bolts.
40 feet.
Rap to the saddle and then to the ground.


Location 

Northwest facing corner of the spire.

Protection 

two 60's, doubles on .5 friends to 2.5, then 3 #3, 6 #3.5, 4 #4, 3 #5, 2 #6


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