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An Eye to the West T 
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White Powder T 

An Eye to the West 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Randy Vogel & Lyman Spitzer, November 1979
Page Views: 815
Submitted By: The Gray Tradster on Apr 17, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Past the tough part, but the fun crack climbing co...

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Gain the right most of two cracks imediately above the large boulder between Crescent Wrench and Tossed Green. A tricky boulder type move leads to an off-balance crack. At the tougher end of the 5.9 continuum, with interesting moves all the way to the top. Almost on par with Tossed Green for quality.

Down climb by wandering up and back down to the left (south) above Crescent Wrench.


Standard Josh rack to #3 camalot(including the anchor)

Photos of An Eye to the West Slideshow Add Photo
Chris Owen belayed by Steve Kahan. Photo by Scott ...
Chris Owen belayed by Steve Kahan. Photo by Scott ...
Brandon Lampley on "An Eye To The West"....
Brandon Lampley on "An Eye To The West"....

Comments on An Eye to the West Add Comment
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By Tan Slacks
From: Joshua tree
Apr 22, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a really fun route. Steep and featured with leaning stances. Worth the effort. While there I did the wide crack 3 feet left into an offwidth. Also 5.9ish. Is this a route with a name? Just curious. A bit of a spooky down climb to the climbers left!
By Dustysdawg
Jan 18, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This was a fun route. The bouldery start grabs your attention right away. It protects very well with Aliens and Nuts. Just when you think it is over, you find there is more good crack to climb. The descent to the left is no big deal.
By namascar
Mar 21, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun route, a blue#3 and a yellow#2 cam makes a good belay at the top.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 20, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I loved this one!
By Woody Stark
Apr 20, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good fun, interesting start and fairly sustained. It takes pro nicely.
By Roger Linfield
Sep 11, 2006

I'll add a comment about the first ascent team. Lyman Spitzer was 65 at the time of the first ascent. He was the chairman of the Princeton astronomy department for many years, and a colleague of Albert Einstein. Spitzer was the first person to suggest (in 1946, years before any satellites were launched) that a telescope be placed in space to overcome the distorting effects of the Earth's atmosphere. This suggestion eventually led to the Hubble Space Telescope. For his pioneering work in astronomy, the Spitzer Space Telescope (last of NASA's four great observatories) was named after him.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Nov 6, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Don't jump on this unless you're solid on 5.9s. The opening moves are tricky with bad fall potential if you're not comfortable placing gear from awkward stances.
By dnaiscool
Apr 18, 2015

Steep and sweet!!Well worth doing if you are here.

My Pro:
#6-10 Stopper
#2-5 TCU
.5, .75, 2 Camalot...and my all-time favorites...
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