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North Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
An Eye For an Eye T 
Bucky's Paradise (formerly "Unknown far left") S 
Buddha Bukstein Crack T 
Just The Fad 
Panacea Roof S 
Remedy S 
Turn the Other Cheek T,TR 
Walk The Line T 

An Eye For an Eye 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,182
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Pat just through the crux.

Description 

This route as described is an amazingly good warmup. At the far left side of the North Wall is an unknown bolted line. Start out right of the first bolt on small holds. Climb up to reach a left diagonal rail feature. At the third bolt do a balancey move left to reach the arete. Climb up to the crack past another bolt and then follow crack to a set of anchors with a nice stance. The original bolted line continues way left over the bulge and into slabby neverland. Don't forget to look for jugs on the left side once in the crack.

Location 

Far left side of the north wall.

Protection 

Four bolts, some hand sized cams and wires.


Photos of An Eye For an Eye Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Eye for an eye. Follows bolts to roof then right u...
BETA PHOTO: Eye for an eye. Follows bolts to roof then right u...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike L.
Mike L.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dimitry.
Dimitry.

Comments on An Eye For an Eye Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tradoholic
Jun 17, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Nice warm up, bring a #3 C4 and you are good to go to the chains with one fixed nut on the way.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 23, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route is super unique and a ton of fun. A great bouldery beginning into some slab, than and arete, to a crack! This route has it all!
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse
Apr 24, 2016

If you want, you can clip the anchors for pro and climb through the awkward chimney for some extra 5.7 fun.

Such a great route!
By GumbyGumbyGumby
Aug 1, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

after the anchers, I tried to lead up the chimney then right onto the highest vertical face and up and over. I had a good mix of small nuts to protect the daunting top out but did not trust the rock quality to hold if I blew it so i down climbed back to the ledge. Would be nice to have that upper section bolted as there is some really nice climbing and its very majestic looking from the bottom.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Aug 1, 2016

Do you mean the face at the top of "Turn the Other Cheek"? or around the corner to the left?

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