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 ADVANCED
North Wall
Select Route:
An Eye For an Eye 
Buddha Bukstein Crack 
Panacea Roof 
Remedy 
Unknown far left 
Walk The Line 

An Eye For an Eye 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 831
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 16, 2006
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Pat just through the crux.

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No longer private property. See below.

Description 

This route as described is an amazingly good warmup. At the far left side of the North Wall is an unknown bolted line. Start out right of the first bolt on small holds. Climb up to reach a left diagonal rail feature. At the third bolt do a balancey move left to reach the arete. Climb up to the crack past another bolt and then follow crack to a set of anchors with a nice stance. The original bolted line continues way left over the bulge and into slabby neverland. Don't forget to look for jugs on the left side once in the crack.


Location 

Far left side of the north wall.


Protection 

Four bolts, some hand sized cams and wires. Please leave any fixed gear you may come across.



Photos of An Eye For an Eye Slideshow Add Photo
Eye for an eye. Follows bolts to roof then right up crack. <br />
BETA PHOTO: Eye for an eye. Follows bolts to roof then right u...
Mike L.
Mike L.
Dimitry.
Dimitry.
Comments on An Eye For an Eye Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Jun 17, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Nice warm up, bring a #3 C4 and you are good to go to the chains with one fixed nut on the way.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 23, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

This route is super unique and a ton of fun. A great bouldery beginning into some slab, than and arete, to a crack! This route has it all!