An Eye for an Eye And a Route for a Route 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Dave Houser, Jan McCollum and Bob Malloy, 1978 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jul 12, 2002 |
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graham pulling through the crux roof
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Description Begin near the right side of the previously mentioned roof and climb a slab up to the base of the roof. Set a piece (small cams work well) and pull the roof (crux) exiting onto more slabby face. From here seven bolts lead up and then left and up to a bolted anchor/rap.
Almost a sport route except for the piece needed under the roof, this is a well-protected climb that has good moves on good rock. If you have a 50 meter rope be careful as the rap is about 85'.
Location This climb lies more or less in the center of the slabby west face (this is the one seen on the approach). A prominent roof will be seen low down in the center of the formation as will a wide light-colored dike higher up and to the right.
Protection 7 bolts, pro to 1", bolted anchor/rap (all bolts 3/8").
| Comments on An Eye for an Eye And a Route for a Route |
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By Woody Stark
Feb 9, 2004
| A wonderful route. The upper friction and edging is a joy. |
By Randy
Feb 10, 2004
| The move going over the roof (the crux) gets your attention right away. You would not want to blow this move (and fall onto the slab below). |
By Bo Johnston
Dec 16, 2004
rating: 5.10b
| First time I climbed this I pussed on the crux lip. We climbed X-Tits and TRed it and I figured out the toe work and came back to lead it (and pucker) another year and loved the feeling. Such a great route with a beautiful view. |
By Locker
From: Westminster, CO
Jan 21, 2005
rating: 5.10b
| nice! |
By Murf
Mar 14, 2005
rating: 5.10b
| Stays as good no matter how many times you've done it. |
By Graham Roff
From: San Diego
Apr 10, 2005
| A good route, but the rock feels a little loose in places. Seemed harder and more sustained than Run For Your Life and definitely more heady (steep friction versus edging making the difference I guess).You want to be strong at the grade before attempting the roof move as a fall just above would be ugly.Be sure to extend the draws at the start and end of the slight traverse or you will be fighting bad rope drag near the end. |
By Mike Hack
Apr 11, 2005
| Great climb! Solid friction and good rock throughout. A couple thought provoking moves after the roof crux keep it interesting. |
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 20, 2007
rating: 5.10b
| Old Vogel guide indicates a bolt below the roof on the slab. Untrue however, the baby roof can be protected with a 2" cam & medium wire to protect. Cool move, but yikes.
60 meter cord does the trick to anchor and down.
Enjoy. |
By Adam Kimmerly
Mar 23, 2008
rating: 5.10b PG13
| I counted 6 bolts, but stupid me missed the third one 'cause I couldn't see it from the second bolt and ended up running it out straight to the fourth one. Didn't realize it until I clipped the 4th and looked back down and right to see the third. It did cut down on rope drag though!
I almost bailed at the start after not feeling so cozy about the fall, but figured out a solid sequence and was able to climb through. it gets easier as you progress, but still keeps you thinking with a combination of crimping and smearing. Well worth the effort if your in the area and solid enough at the grade to not fall off the move over the lip. |
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