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A Group of Mysteries of Frenchwoman 
A Ship Called Black Rock 
An Act of Strange Boar 
Baby Tapir 
Below Lissen 
Bobcat Cringe 
Bowling to Biscuits 
He is Truly a Great Airplane 
House of the 7th Bobcat 
Law and Order 
Peanuts To Serve You 
Purple Kool-Aid 
Rice Krispies 
Solitude 

An Act of Strange Boar 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jon Nelson (with Derek Pearson and Eric Hirst) 2/12/2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 972
Submitted By: Eric Hirst on Mar 26, 2012
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Jon leading on the first ascent, 2/12/2012

Description 

[The full name of this route, including its future extension pitches, is actually "An act of strange boar, a group of mysteries of frenchwoman, a ship called black rock, and a hatch."]

Strange Boar is the spectacular dihedral just R of Baby Tapir and just L of Rice Krispies. It's reminiscent of Slow Children, but thinner and more sustained.

If you have pudgy fingers, you may find this route to be a lot harder than 11a. Daintier folks, however, may think it's only 5.10. Either way, climb it. It's a pretty dang classic line.


Location 

See Baby Tapir overview photo. Start at a comfortable ledge (2 bolts) a short distance above the trail.


Protection 

Pro to 1". Mostly thin cams and small/medium stoppers. A single 60m rope will get you down.



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By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Mar 26, 2012

My calf muscles started to blow out before my arms, but the arms also almost blew out at the hand pod near the top. It's not very long, but good luck finding good rests. It has a nice ledge at the top to sit down and belay your second.

If you can do this line, you ought to be able to cruise Slow Children.

By MorganH
Apr 16, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13

Super fun line!

By michal
From: Everett WA
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Perfect climbing link with next pitch for a rope stretching masterpiece

By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 11, 2014

Is it cheating if I bear hug all the way over to the flake, worked for me.

By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Feb 11, 2014

Geoff, do you mean the flake on Rice Krispies?

I don't think it is off. Sounds like an impressive way to go.