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Lookout Point
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Group of Mysteries of Frenchwoman T 
A Hatch T 
A Ship Called Black Rock T 
An Act of Strange Boar T 
Baby Tapir T,S 
Below Lissen T,S 
Bobcat Cringe T 
Bowling to Biscuits T 
He is Truly a Great Airplane T 
House of the 7th Bobcat T 
Law and Order T 
Peanuts To Serve You T 
Purple Kool-Aid T 
Rice Krispies T 
Solitude T 

An Act of Strange Boar 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jon Nelson (with Derek Pearson and Eric Hirst) 2/12/2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,371
Submitted By: Eric Hirst on Mar 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Jon leading on the first ascent, 2/12/2012

Description 

[The full name of this route is actually "An act of strange boar, a group of mysteries of frenchwoman, a ship called black rock, and a hatch."]

Strange Boar is the spectacular dihedral just R of Baby Tapir and just L of Rice Krispies. It's reminiscent of Slow Children, but thinner and more sustained.

If you have pudgy fingers, you may find this route to be a lot harder than 11a. Daintier folks, however, may think it's only 5.10. Either way, climb it. It's a pretty dang classic line.

Location 

See Baby Tapir overview photo. Start at a comfortable ledge (2 bolts) a short distance above the trail.

Protection 

Pro to 1". Mostly thin cams and small/medium stoppers. A single 60m rope will get you down.


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By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Mar 26, 2012

My calf muscles started to blow out before my arms, but the arms also almost blew out at the hand pod near the top. It's not very long, but good luck finding good rests. It has a nice ledge at the top to sit down and belay your second.

If you can do this line, you ought to be able to cruise Slow Children.
By MorganH
Apr 16, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Super fun line!
By michal
From: Everett WA
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Perfect climbing link with next pitch for a rope stretching masterpiece
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 11, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Is it cheating if I bear hug all the way over to the flake, worked for me.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Feb 11, 2014

Geoff, do you mean the flake on Rice Krispies?

I don't think it is off. Sounds like an impressive way to go.
By Chris Kalman
Jul 21, 2014

Has anyone redpointed the last pitch? I tried it today and found it quite good - I even think it may have been my favorite pitch on the route! I had some trouble and fell a couple times through the traverse, but I'm thinking around Index 12a... Anyone?
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Jul 22, 2014

Hi Chris,
I was hoping to add a bolt to the start of the traverse crack, cleaning off an easier start, and giving it a try again, maybe later this week.

Last time, I had the same experience as you. Fantastic finishing moves. Glad you like it. But no, I haven't heard of anyone else trying it.
By jellis
From: Washington, East and West
Sep 15, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Felt a tad harder than Slow Children at the start. Definitely link this with A Group Of Mysterious French Women as one pitch. Bring 1-2 hand size cams and save some medium nuts for the top.