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BETA PHOTO: All the routes on the headwall. If you're going to...
Named AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) because a hard-core sport climber claimed he got nose bleeds and headaches from being two pitches up. You can avoid AMS by doing it in a single pitch and either runnering the mid-way anchor with a long sling or by clipping the first bolt on the headwall and then unclipping the anchor. Fun jug haul on steep rock. The first half to the mid-way anchor is mungy 5.8, but it's worth it for the fun climbing above.
The second route from the left side of the headwall. Shares an anchor with Poligrip.
Bolts. About 11, depending on if you clip and what you skip (possible to skip on lower section and mid-way anchor).
Showing just how steep the upper headwall is. Wild...
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 29, 2011
Other than Pogue's Arete, this is the most overhanging 5.11 I've climbed in NM.