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 ADVANCED
The Hot Zone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amplification S 
Calm Horizons S 
Prime Meridian, The S 
Unsorted Routes:

Amplification 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 542
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Jul 5, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Bottom of Amplification. Follows the small seam.

Description 

A pure endurance climb with no real cruxes, Amplification follows a small seam to the top of the wall.

A fun boulder problem gets things going. Then pull into a large corner and weave left and right between decent holds until you are forced to leave the corner. Follow a crack making slightly harder moves for another 30 feet until you get a rest below the steep final headwall. Luckily, the holds improve, so just manage your pump to the top.

This is probably the best 5.13 journey route at Maple. Like most routes at The Hot Zone, this route is still cleaning up. Otherwise, this would definitely get four stars.

Location 

On the right flank of The Hot Zone. Look for an obvious seam/corner system.

Protection 

Lots of bolts. The bolted anchors are equipped with chains.


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Top of Amplification.
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By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 23, 2013

As of 9/22/13, the flake at the end of the initial boulder problem is about ready to come off. It used to flex a bit, but this is more that it used to. There are cracks at the base and you can see it moving and hear it cracking once you complete the sequence and lung to it. Needs some serious amount of glue behind it before this route becomes much harder and possibly injures someone.

Also, the bolt that's 2 above this section is coming out. More than just a spinner, the rock's eroding and it's looking pretty sketch.