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Some of the best long routes in Connecticut are in the Ampitheater including Cat Crack (5.10) and Dol Guldur (5.11) Reaching heights of 110', there are a variety of face climbs, chimneys to off widths to fingers and hands- something for everyone. The scenery is incredible, especially in the Fall, when the Ampitheater is best. A great spot for cold weather climbing.
Follow the Metacomet (Blue Blazed Trail) from the Castle parking lot, for about 10 minutes to an overlook characterized by the bulge that rises to block the view (somewhat elusive for the first timer, meet up with someone who knows the area).
13 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Amphitheater:
Rat Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110'
Black Corner 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Squirrel Cage 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Cat Crack 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Sickle 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Dol Guldur 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad, TR, Chipped, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Amphitheater
Dol Guldur 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 CT : Central CT : ... : Amphitheater
Climb the crack with a variety of thin fingers and face holds to the top of the crack, traverse left, go up and back right. Tricky and sequential, and tough to protect on the lead. You'll need every trick in the thin crack book. I am a bit embarrased to be posting this since after many tries I only managed to do this once during the mid 90's shortly after Ken Nichols had made his 1000th ascent of the line! I gave it the traditional 5.11 grade, but let me say this is a SOLID 5.11. One migh...[more] Browse More Classics in CT
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