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One of the best moderates routes on the Red Wall. Rather run out on the last pitch. A great alternitive to super slab or moscow when theres crowds, if your solid on run out 5.7.
P1 - 5.5 - Start With the first pitch of super slab.
P2 - 5.7 - From the belay work up a short 20 ft run out to where a crack system heads up and through a small buldge. Belay atop bulge at stance with .5 - 1.5 inch gear. Or belay a little higher at small ledge off an old fixed pin and some tricky aliens behind a small flake.
P3 - 5.7 - Head straight up from the belay on runout climbing when possible work left to find some good gear, then ascend the light colored corner to the bolted anchors attop the wall.
Rap with double ropes or do tricky walk off.
Begins with the first pitch of super slab.
Gear to 3"
|Comments on Amphetamine Grip
|By The Grit|
Sep 17, 2008
Four stars my ass. There are way better 5.7 climbs at Smith that don't get four stars. The location and views are good, but the climbing is mediocre at best and the pro is worthless.