Amphetamine Grip 5.7 R
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Danny Gates & Steve Strauch 1970 |
| Submitted By: | corvegas on Feb 4, 2007 |
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Description One of the best moderates routes on the Red Wall. Rather run out on the last pitch. A great alternitive to super slab or moscow when theres crowds, if your solid on run out 5.7. P1 - 5.5 - Start With the first pitch of super slab. P2 - 5.7 - From the belay work up a short 20 ft run out to where a crack system heads up and through a small buldge. Belay atop bulge at stance with .5 - 1.5 inch gear. Or belay a little higher at small ledge off an old fixed pin and some tricky aliens behind a small flake. P3 - 5.7 - Head straight up from the belay on runout climbing when possible work left to find some good gear, then ascend the light colored corner to the bolted anchors attop the wall. Rap with double ropes or do tricky walk off.
Location Begins with the first pitch of super slab.
Protection Gear to 3"
| Comments on Amphetamine Grip |
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By The Grit From: PDX Sep 17, 2008
| Four stars my ass. There are way better 5.7 climbs at Smith that don't get four stars. The location and views are good, but the climbing is mediocre at best and the pro is worthless. |
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