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The Doors
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Amoeba Brains 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Michael Simpson 1986
Page Views: 270
Submitted By: Mr. Mix on Apr 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

Diffucult bouldery start leads to more moderate climbing up the arete. After 3rd bolt exit arete to right and finish on slab top-out.

Location 

The prominent arete directly across from Spleef Peak

Protection 

5 bolts and anchors


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By A Ange
Apr 21, 2009

In the guidebooks this has always been rated 10c. Who decided to change the grade. Did a holds break off?
By Mr. Mix
From: Sauk City, WI
Apr 29, 2009

Actually the third addition of Vertical Heartland calls the climb a 10d. Seeing routes are graded on consensus on Mountain Project I was the first to call it an 11a, (I have climbed 3 11a's at Jackson Falls and I thought this route was harder so I almost called it 11b). If you feel it is easier than feel free to add to the consensus. We all have different strengths, this is the beauty of a consensus rating.
By Ross Exler
From: New York
Nov 27, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

bouldery first few moves, then easy once you are established on the arete. Thought the first few moves felt significantly harder than the 10c rating, then the rest of it climbs like a fun 9