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America's Cup 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA:  Kim Carrigan and Geoff Weigand, 1985
Season: Any Season
Page Views: 550
Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Feb 3, 2013
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Description 

This route climbs the zig-zaging crack just to the left of Red Zinger. Start on the face 10 feet to the left of Zinger, below a bolt. Easy moves to the bolt segue to a short face climbing boulder problem that can be done two ways. The sharp crimps allow passage to a finger crack and some more moderate climbing.

Clip a piton and embark on a series of insecure slaps up a "rail" feature. (The piton can be be backed up with a #1 a few feet below)
Micro cams can be pre-placed along the rail, but I don't think you could get them in on lead.
Once you have made it to the end of the rail a few more hard moves are required to stand up to a wide hand crack.

The crack often pinches out and requires a few more tricky sequences. Overall the climbing eases to 5.11- and you get to enjoy a variety of sizes from 2" on down.

The place to stop the first pitch is unclear with a poor slung block at about 140'. Alternately when you are at the height of the Red Zinger anchor you can face climb across (4 feet to the right) if only doing the first pitch. The second pitch finishes at the upper Meat Grinder anchor and has a few tricky sections but nothing harder than 5.10+ .


Location 

This route is on the same tier as Meat Grinder and Red Zinger. It is the first line to the left of Zinger.

You can get down from the Red Zinger anchor with one rope or do two rappels if you do the second pitch (or lead it in one mega pitch).


Protection 

Heavy on small cams for pitch one with up to 4x Blue Alien size and 2-3x of Black Alien. From there doubles to #1 with a #2 and #3 camalot.



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