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Climb the obvious arete and slabs to the right of Goldrush and left of the Silver Stage. This route is quite loose in a few spots and is not recommended for those seeking something less than a truly "alpine" experience.
P1: This starts on the ledge right of the mine shaft near the base of Goldrush. Climb the left-facing corner past a few bolts, traverse right through overlap to a nice handcrack, 5.9.
P2: This is a long pitch with mostly good rock, but some really loose blocks at the start that should not be trusted. Yarding on bolts can make for a safer-ish experience, bolts and gear, 5.11a.
P3: Climb the upper headwall, bolts and gear, 5.11, not recommended.
Gear: Single rack to 2" and quickdraws, 2 ropes.
Bolts and gear to 2". Fixed anchors.
Start on a ledge immediately right of the ice climb Goldrush and about 150 feet left Silver Stage and Five Card Draw.
|Comments on Americana Arete
|By Lee Frazer|
Sep 29, 2009
For those of you who are wondering...this climb is on the rock to the LEFT of the slab where Five Cart Draw and Silver Stage sit.
|By Tim Kuss|
From: Durango, CO
Jul 13, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
The rap anchors on this route each need chain and quicklinks to make them proper, as the current set-up is AFU.
Also, there is a teetering block waiting near the last bolt. I didn't know where my dog was, so I snuck past it without sending it.