Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Goldrush Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Americana Arete T,S 
Five Card Draw S 
Silver Stage S 
Stone Combat S 

Americana Arete 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: RW
Season: Summer
Page Views: 633
Submitted By: chosspector on Aug 16, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Topo.

Description 

Climb the obvious arete and slabs to the right of Goldrush and left of the Silver Stage. This route is quite loose in a few spots and is not recommended for those seeking something less than a truly "alpine" experience.

P1: This starts on the ledge right of the mine shaft near the base of Goldrush. Climb the left-facing corner past a few bolts, traverse right through overlap to a nice handcrack, 5.9.

P2: This is a long pitch with mostly good rock, but some really loose blocks at the start that should not be trusted. Yarding on bolts can make for a safer-ish experience, bolts and gear, 5.11a.

P3: Climb the upper headwall, bolts and gear, 5.11, not recommended.

Gear: Single rack to 2" and quickdraws, 2 ropes.

Protection 

Bolts and gear to 2". Fixed anchors.

Location 

Start on a ledge immediately right of the ice climb Goldrush and about 150 feet left Silver Stage and Five Card Draw.


Comments on Americana Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lee Frazer
From: Durango, Colorado
Sep 29, 2009

For those of you who are wondering...this climb is on the rock to the LEFT of the slab where Five Cart Draw and Silver Stage sit.
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Jul 13, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The rap anchors on this route each need chain and quicklinks to make them proper, as the current set-up is AFU.

Also, there is a teetering block waiting near the last bolt. I didn't know where my dog was, so I snuck past it without sending it.