Americana Arete 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | RW |
| Season: | Summer |
| Submitted By: | chosspector on Aug 16, 2009 |
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Description Climbs the obvious arete and slabs to the right of Goldrush and left of the Silver Stage. This route is quite loose in a few spots and is not recommended for those seeking something less than a truly "alpine" experience.
P1: starts on the ledge right of the mine shaft near the base of Goldrush. Climb the left-facing corner past a few bolts, traverse right through overlap to a nice handcrack. 5.9.
P2: Long pitch with mostly good rock but some really loose blocks at the start that should not be trusted. Yarding on bolts can make for a safe-er-ish experience. Bolts and gear. 5.11a.
P3: Climbs upper headwall. Bolts and gear. 5.11. Not recommended.
Gear: Single rack to 2" and quickdraws. 2 ropes.
Protection Bolts and gear to 2". Fixed anchors.
Location Starts on a ledge immediately right of the ice climb Goldrush and about 150 ft left Silver Stage and Five Card Draw.
| Comments on Americana Arete |
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By Lee Frazer
Sep 29, 2009
| For those of you who are wondering...this climb is on the rock to the LEFT of the slab where Five Cart Draw and Silver Stage sit. |
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Jul 13, 2010
rating: 5.10c
| The rap anchors on this route each need chain and quicklinks to make them proper, as the current set-up is AFU.
Also, there is a teetering block waiting near the last bolt. I didn't know where my dog was, so I snuck past it without sending it. |
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