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American Wet Dream 

American Wet Dream 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Clevenger, Accomazzo, McCabe, and Teske- 8/74
Season: Summer and Fall
Page Views: 1,076
Submitted By: snowhazed on Sep 29, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: View of the route from the base out by the road. ...

Description 

Every belay is at a ledge, several HUGE. The route staircases left. Technical crux is crack switch to start the 3rd pitch. Fourth pitch has about 15 feet of 10a protected by a bolt at the bottom, and horrendously flexing flakes above that. A fall here would smack you on a slabby ledge. Tops out with some standard 5.7R slab.


Location 

Starts in some water funnels that lead to an obvious 5.9 hands bulge. After 5th pitch head up 4th class for a bit then descend left down ledges.


Protection 

.3 to 3 inches. Belay at top of third is bolted.



Photos of American Wet Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Josh F. on the third pitch of American Wet Dream.
Josh F. on the third pitch of American Wet Dream.
Josh F. on the first pitch of American Wet Dream
Josh F. on the first pitch of American Wet Dream
Taken from the bolted belay at the beginning of pitch four.
Taken from the bolted belay at the beginning of pi...
My good friend Keith Hancock having fun on AWD!
My good friend Keith Hancock having fun on AWD!
Comments on American Wet Dream Add Comment
Show which comments
By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Jun 22, 2009

Yesterday my man Henry fished in a damn good purple c3 on the left side of the 10a r corner- about a body length above the bolt- making it much less runout.

By Tyler Logan
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 4, 2009

Pitch one has some cool crack moves over a small bulge. Pitch two, though short, seemed to have the most technical moves. Third pitch is sustained but well-protected--you can place a medium-sized nut way above your head before the crux. The "R" pitch was neither dangerous, difficult, or scary compared to the rest.

By squiddo
From: Mountain View, CA
Oct 27, 2009

this route is so much fun. Highly recommended and safe with modern gear.

By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 27, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Sweet climb! More like 5 separate climbs in a row.

Personally, the R rating seemed out of place. There was some adequate gear at the corner if you had some small cams.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 15, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Purple C3 perfectly protected the move above the bolt, as advertised above.

This route is not runout, with the exception of the loooonng 5.7 slab on the last pitch.

The 10b changing corner to wide hands pitch is definitely the true crux of the route, and offers significantly harder and more sustained climbing than any other pitch.

Descent was easy - just go waaaaay far looker's left before switching back. In general, follow the trail of crushed manzanita!

By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Jun 28, 2012

R rating is BS. The section above the bolt is maybe 5.7, and you get solid medium gear only a few moves above the bolt.